Or you can just do without the bandsaw by the following method:

Mount a section of log the same length as it is in diameter between centers,
with the centers in the center of the log, not necessarily on the pith.
Then turn this into a rough round ball....eyeball round is good enough.

Mark a circle around the middle of the ball with a pencil. This circle
should be equidistant from the centers, in other words, if the centers are
at the N & S poles, the pencil circle would be the equator.

Prior to doing this, construct an "L" shaped piece from 1x4, like two sides
of a box with one side just longer than the distance from the bed to the
center of the spindle and the other side a few inches longer. Slide the
longer side along the ways and mark the center of the vertical leg at
exactly the spindle height, then drill a hole to hold a pencil at that
point.

With the rough-turned ball stationary, pick out the two points that you want
to be the bottoms of your bowl blanks and use your "L" shaped device to mark
the equator on each side of the lathe. These become the new points to
re-mount the rough ball.

After re-mounting the rough ball with the pith now perpendicular to the ways
of the lathe, turn the ball until it is round again. Also turn a tenon at
each center location, (spur center and live center) if you have a chuck. If
you are using a faceplate, just cut a flat area at each center location,
then before screwing on the faceplate, knock off the little tenon that was
left when you turned the flat area. With a long parting tool, cut the ball
along the pith. If your parting tool is too short, cut as deep as you can
then saw the ball in two with a coarse handsaw, chainsaw, or what have you.

Now you have two pieces ready to mount on a chuck, or a faceplate.

This method is actually faster than chainsawing the log in half, marking out
circles, cutting out on a bandsaw, mounting the piece on the lathe, and
roughing out a bowl shape.

Try it, you will like it.

Regards,
James R. Johnson



"Owen Davies" wrote in message
...
Bill Rubenstein wrote:

But, every now and then I also would like to crosscut a board to, say 15
or 20" on the bandsaw. The way I do it -- I cut it a little long at an
angle -- whatever will work with the shorter end butted against the
blade-cover. Then I rotate it 180% and make the straight cut I wanted
to make in the first place.

I hate to ask stupid questions, but wouldn't a circular saw be easier?
My table saw still hasn't been reassembled since we moved to Florida
three or four years ago, but the circular saw and a sawhorse or two can
always be found.

Owen Davies