stryped wrote:
One last thing. I have bought some woodworking books and one of them
said you can finish and true an edge of a board with a router and
table. Is this true and could this be use dinstead of having to buy a
jointer?
Edge on a router, yes. Face on a router, no. Not without tons of work.
For the edge, all you need is an adjustable outfeed fence...run a foot
or so of the edge, move the outfeed fence out so it meets the cut edge,
run the rest of the board.
You can still do it without an adjustable outfeed fence but you have to
set up to take off a predetermined amount then clamp something with that
predetermined thickness (piece of formica, e.g.) to the outfeed fence
instead of just moving the fence.
As far as joining/reducing the thickness goes, I have a 3/4 x 4" router
bit I used occasionally for that, setting the router up horisontally and
using formica to support the cut bottom. PITA but I didn't have a
joiner at the time and it worked OK for narrow boards once in a while.
The other way involves building a jig with two long sides, each side
identical to the other. The board to be surfaced is secured between
them, a router is mounted on a stout board that will span them when the
router is at one side; put as wide a cutting mortice bit as possible in
the router, move it to across the board, move it a cutter's width
forward, move across board again. Keep repeating until board is
surfaced. Since you should only be cutting 1/8 or less in depth, the
entire procedure may need to be repeated several times. You'll wind up
(after a long time) with a board that has one true face. Go buy a
joiner.
There are also the rotary "planers" meant for a radial arm saw or drill
press. They work similarly to the above but cut a somewhat wider swath.
Leave a coarse surface too. Go buy a joiner.
As long as I'm at it, I have also used an 8" softpad with coarse
sandpaper mounted on a RAS horizontally. Works pretty well - better
than a rotary planer - but makes absolutely *TONS* of sawdust. Go buy a
joiner.
--
dadiOH
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