Phisherman wrote:

4. radius top back of dados and bottom front of runners

Now you can pull the drawer out and the back will stop it at the face
frame. Drawer can be removed by tilting front up.

Can I get a detailed explanation of #4, please?

If the dado/runner are close fitting and the back of the drawer is
higher then the opening is wide you won't be able to remove the drawer.
Or even insert it in the first place

The solution is to round over the specified areas with a jig saw, rasp,
sander, whatever. Sort of like a rule joint. For example, imagine you
are holding the runner in front of you looking at the side of it...left
side is the front, right side the back. The front edge is perpendicular
to the top and bottom edges. Now round over that bottom left corner so
it is more or less quarter round rather than square. Do the same at the
top back of the dados.

When you pull the drawer all the way out the too high back will hit the
face frame and prevent it from being pulled out. When you let loose of
the drawer, its weight will cause the drawer front to drop down a bit;
it won't fall because it is supported by the runners; it won't drop very
far because the back contacts the face frame. However - because of the
radiused runners/dados - you can lift the drawer front above
horizontal...doing so pivots the back ...pivoting the back means that
its vertical section becomes less than the drawer opening and that means
the drawer can be removed.

That's about as detailed as I can get. Can't tell you how much to
radius, I just "eyeball it". I make backs about 1/4" higher than the
normal clearance; i.e., if you've allowed 1/8" clearance at the top for
sides and back then add 1/4" to that. I cut off about 25% of the extra
back height adjacent to the sides and round over the proud edges - no
reason other than esthetics.

--
dadiOH
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