Rick wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
a 1.5% 3/32" tungsten....well you get the idea.

I think you generally want DC for TIG on steel.


Yes, I had the TIG set for DC...by square wave I meant the first TIG
setting, which is full current when foot pedal is pressed, not the slope or
pulsed modes, which I don't fully understand yet.

You definitely want to be in a foot pedal controlled amperage mode. This
is one of the big advantages of TIG which allows you to move smoothly
between thicker and thinner sections of weld.



Yes it is indeed possible for a person's hand to be that steady, indeed
it's far easier to control a TIG torch than the end of a 14" stick
electrode. The tungsten should stick out perhaps 1/8" from the end of
the gas cup. The key is to not be afraid to get real close to what
you're welding.

Resting a finger of the hand holding the TIG torch on the work piece a
few inches away from the weld point is a good way to help steady your
hand. Also don't be afraid to have your thumb and index finger holding
the torch body just back from the gas cup which will give you better
control of torch twist.


Perhaps I was holding the torch a bit far from the tip...will the method you
mention.

I didn't want to get so close for fear of breathing too many fumes. But I
guess welding
mild steel with argon, the fumes are not so bad? You can't exactly have a
fan on the work
can you?

With clean mild steel there should not be much to worry about from
fumes. A fan would of course blow the shielding argon away from the weld
which would be bad.


I'm certainly no pro welder, but I don't dip the tungsten very often.
Most times it's when I'm fast tacking something together and didn't take
the time to get in a good working position.


How do you hold the torch (angle from vertical) and where do you feed in
the
rod to the puddle? In front of the torch? to the side? behind it?

Download some of the PDF pamphlets he
http://www.millerwelds.com/education...pamphlets.html

Also order the set of welding calculators he
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/tools/#calculators they are
invaluable for us non-pros for finding a starting point for machine
settings and electrodes selection. Get the full set even if you don't
yet have a MIG (you will eventually).


Thanks for the tips both of you! I regularly solder 100 pin SMT parts with
no problem, but I
haven't had to grind my soldering iron point because it welded to the
circuit board in quite some time. :-)

Rick

A bit of a difference between the 40 Watt soldering iron at 700 degrees
and the 10Kw welder at several thousand degrees.

Get your head in as close as you would for soldering and steady your
torch hand with a finger and you'll find it gets a lot easier.

Pete C.