In article ,
Jon Elson wrote:
Paul Weber wrote:
The runout is the same on the inside taper, over .002.
So much for buying old American iron.
Well, you can pull it apart and check for any obvious signs
of improper repairs, damaged parts, etc. Check the bearings to make
sure they are not damaged (it may not take a badly dented roller or inner
race to produce the symptoms you describe. When you get the spindle
out, you can try rolling it on a surface plate to look for actual bending.
If the bending is obvious, you can check around to see who can make
a new spindle for you.
Or pick up one from eBay -- perhaps with a spare headstock
wrapped around it. That's how I converted my 5418 (2-1/4x8 thread) to
L-00. Or go to the Daves (Dave Sobel and Dave Ficken) to see if one of
them can find one for you.
A very servicable spindle is not that hard to make,
especially if you can get access to a toolpost grinder. Make a spindle
"blank", in other words, don't finish the inside taper or the chuck mounting
threads
No threads on this one, just another taper with a keyway
machined in it, and a key installed. (I believe that he has a L-00
spindle nose on this machine.)
until the spindle is back in YOUR lathe headstock. You can cut
the inside taper with the compound slide. You use a known-good male
taper as a master,
The internal taper is MT 4-1/2, for which it is more difficult
to find the masters. (It was actually a ASA taper, where they took the
Morse series, and put them between two other series, plus added the
4-1/2 taper to fill a perceived gap. I think that is the smallest of
these tapers which will handle a 5C drawbar and nosepiece, not forcing
you to go to the bulk of MT-5 for the size needed.)
and use blue dye to check the fit. When you get even
marking of the blue dye, the angle of the compound is exactly right, then
grind a little at a time until the arbor goes to the correct depth.
Cutting the taper for the chuck is easier, and you just test fit the chuck
until it threads on smoothly.
Or slides on smoothly, since it is another taper. Once that
fits (checked with bluing) then pull the spindle and mill the key slot
and install the key.
If the bend in the spindle is only at the outer tip, you can just reface the
backplates of all your chucks, and regrind the inside taper until it
runs true.
I think not a good idea with the L-00 spindle nose, though it
could work on a threaded spindle nose.
Enjoy,
DoN.
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