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"Rick" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 6 Jan 2006 08:33:50 -0000, "JustMe"
wrote:

"Rick" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 5 Jan 2006 05:55:49 -0000, "JustMe"
wrote:

Hi folks,

This isn't DIY as such (although some DIY will be required once work
starts), but your advise and suggestions for options in how best to
approach
fixing this problem would be appreciated.

My house is a 100 year old mid-terrace with no foundation (just a few
courses of bricks on to the ground). I assume that the basement *was*
a
wash-room - it has a sealed up fireplace and *had* an open drain
(effectively the room was open to the elements). It is about 2/3
underground
and about 6ft 6" high.

About a year ago it was extensively modernised with the intention of
creating extra living space. The coal shoot space was converted in to
a
bathroom (shower, toilet+macerator, sink), a space was dug out beyond
the
area of the existing basement to create a kitchen, the open drain was
walled
up and sealed and the entire space was wired for electrics, plumbing,
central heating etc, carpeted, plasterboarded, smoke & heat-alarmed
etc.

Unfortunately, the work was carried out without proper consideration
for
damp (it wasn't tanked) and the plaster in the main room and corridor
areas,
plus the woodwork in the kitchen are showing indications of the
presence
of
damp (mould appearing from ground to about 50 cms up). And there's a
persistent dank smell. The mould is popping up in areas where the
plasterboard walls are in contact with the ground, around the window,
on
side walls, by the stairs leading to the ground floor - effectively
the
moisture seems to be being sucked up from the ground. Further, the
builder
chose to paint the original brick walls before fitting the
plasterboard
with
some sort of tar and then mounted the plasterboard on to horizontally
mounted batons, off the wall.

The kitchen and bathroom walls were covered with plastic cladding
which
therefore aren't showing signs of damp, but the MDF carcasses of the
units
fitted in the kitchen area are showing signs of mould, again
presumably
being sucked up from the ground in which they're in contact. The
bathroom
having a tiled floor and usual bathroom-type, non porous fittings,
shows
no
indication of damp.

I have been advised that the fix to all this is to strip walls and
floors
back to bare brick/concrete, have the tar sandblasted off and refinish
these
surfaces. A couple of options have been suggested by different people:

1) Tank floor and walls up to a height of about 1 metre throughout and
fit a
water-well-type-thing at the lowest point, connected to a pump (this
in
case
of emergency flooding). Then refinish walls and floors.

2) Have DPC installed around lowest possible point of wall around
rooms
and
tank floor and very bottom of wall up to level of DPC. Walls could be
left
as bear brick or resurfaced, at my choice.

Either way I've been told that the wall surfaces have to be refinished
up
to
the ceiling, as these must be ripped out so that the tar can be
removed
(this is preventing moisture trapped within the bricks from escaping,
I'm
told and the horizontal batons onto which the plasterboard is mounted
are
prevent air from flowing over the wall, between the bricks and the
plasterboard).

I would like to leave the bathroom space be and have been told that it
*could* be OK, but likely would simply need work doing after a few
years
anyway (tiles might start to pop up off the floor and suchlike) - not
sure
whether to take a chance on this or not.

It all seems such a waste given the otherwise finished state of the
space,
but I know that it cannot be used for its intended purpose until the
problem
is put right. I just want to keep the cost to the minimum necessary
and
avoid ripping out as much as possible.

I know you cannot see the area for yourselves, but from what you've
heard
and with whatever experience and knowledge you guys have, what would
your
advice and recommendations be?

Many thanks.

Have you seen "Holmes on Homes" on Discovery Home and Lesiure (about
12:00), he does quitye a few "leakey basements", which will give you
some ideas on what to look for

Rick

No, I don't have Discovery.
What does he refer to?


Mike Holmes is a sort of Tommy Walsh, but less fat, and more able. He
takes other peoples screw ups, rips them apart showing what is wrong,
and then puts it all back right. The aim of the game is to teach the
public how things should be done right, what to look for, how to
ensure you are not being ripped off.

He does a couple of leeky cellars, I thought if you saw the shows you
might get some ideas on what to look for when your contractors come
back.

There is one where he digs the house out of the ground, and tanks the
outside, and at least one other (may be two) where he deals with
problems from the inside. None of the cleaalars are old brick ones,
but many of the techniques he uses are applicbable.

What I don't understand with your, is why you blocked up a perfeclty
working drain in the floor, which you could have used.

Should've made it clearer: the drain *wasn't* blocked up. It was open to the
room at one end, so effectively Victorian serving wench could wash and
mangle the clothes at the top of the room and all the watery mess could just
run down the floor and in to the open drain at the bottom. The same drain
channel also serves the roof gutter downpipe and *is* still being used, now
also by the new kitchen and bathroom sinks and shower (though not toilet
which is pumped off in to the soil pipe) and also still by the same gutter
downpipe. All that's been "blocked" is it is no longer possible to pour
water on to the floor of the room and see it run down in to the drain - a
2ft double wall has been built to enclose the room from the outside, where
it was open, topped by a large window.

The shows may be avalaible for download somewhere.

Rick