"David" wrote in message
...
Scott Lurndal wrote:

"Connor Aston" writes:

I was in the workshop tonight, and I'm making a 14" x 28" top for a music
centre
planned down to 7/8" some white oak 10" wide.
So I put it through my performax 16/32 with 100 grit so the planer marks
are away. Thats all I think the performax is really good for too many
lines show up even with finer grits.
But the question is finishing from here.
Should I use a

1. Reciprocating sander (i dont actually own one)
or use an
2. Orbital sander (I have and use one of these)

Which gives the better finish and what is a suitable final grade
180/240/360?


Go up to 180 or 220 on your performax, then hand sand with the grain
to 320. Depending on your finish, of course. If you are painting,
don't bother with the 320. You should get lines with the performax if it
is adjusted and tuned
correctly. scott
I've read lots of messages about drum sanders leaving lines. it isn't an
adjustment; it's because of the linear path of the sandpaper across the
wood.

Try skewing the workpiece a bit differently each pass and don't take heavy
cuts, according to others.

dave

Dave,

The skewing of the stock helps prevent snipe. The sanding striations will
still be there, just at a different angle. I've found the best combination
for me is to use the drum sander up to 150, maybe 180 grit, then finish with
180 and 220 on the ROS. If it needs to go to 320, I like to hand-sand it to
insure I don't burnish the wood and mess up the next step of staining. But
that's my personal preference and will vary with the wood and papers you're
using.

Bob S.