On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 00:31:11 -0500, Keith Williams
wrote:

In article ,
says...
On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 18:55:29 GMT, "YTK" wrote:

Some one at this NG recommended LevelQuickRS to level my basement bath
floor. The floor is really out of level and I figure I need 7 bags to level
72 sq. ft. to a depth of approximately 13/16."

If you've used this or a similar product please let me know what tools I'll
need and if the plan I've devised for pouring the mixture needs revision.
Here is my plan: First, I'm going to install the treated lumber plates to
completely enclose the area of the bathroom. Next, I plan on mixing and
pouring about 5 bags in the first pour and then see what, if any, additional
pouring I'll need. Finally, if I need additional coverage I'll estimate and
mix and pour a second and final time. Oh, I'll be applying the primer before
each pour.

If you've used this type of floor leveler I'd appreciate your advice.

YTK in WI


Did this to level the floor in a small basement bath.

Your plan sounds reasonable, but there are a few things to watch out
for.

Have help. The stuff starts setting quickly and if you want it to
self level, you will need to get all 5 bags mixed and poured quickly.
Have a *big* electric drill with a paddle mixer, and plenty of buckets
to mix in. I would recommend about 3 people, 1 to run the mixing
paddle, one to measure and add the water and mix, and the 3rd to dump
the compound and roughly spread it. It self levels, but it works a
lot better if you spread it manually around so it's approximately
level. Mark lines on your perimeter so you know what level is.

Have enough buckets so you don't have to wait for one to be emptied
before you start on the next, at least three plus a couple more for
measuring water. Mark 1 or 2 buckets with a line indicating the right
amount of water so you don't have to measure each time. If you are off
on the water too much either way it won't work as designed.

It's heavy, and it takes a lot more effort to mix it, even using the
drill and paddle, than I expected. I used a Milwaukee 1/2 in heavy
duty drill, and it was still slow going to do the mixing.

The powder is very fine, and when you dump it in the bucket to mix, it
will form a big cloud of dust that gets on everything, so be prepared
and block off any areas you can. Dust masks or respirators are a good
idea.

Seal any holes or gaps in the formwork with caulk or foam. The stuff
doesn't seem that runny, but I had a small gap and it slowly seeped
out as it was setting and I ended up with a depression in the surface
next to the gap. I also had a small hole in the underlying concrete
that I assumed was shallow, and a surprising amount of compound ran
into it, leaving another depression.

Be prepared to mix and place an extra bag or two on the first pour. I
had estimated 1.5 bags and it took more like 2.5. Fortunately I had
bought an extra bag, just in case, intending to return it if I didn't
need it.

Good Luck!

Thanks Paul. I haven't needed to use the stuff, but have been
wondering how it worked. I guess I'm glad I don't need to use it,
but your warnings are information I'll commit to memory. ;-)

Can you pour the stuff in stages/layers?

I think it would be harder to do it in stages, but if you have a big
area it would probably be the only way. If I were going to try it, I
would start in the areas that need the most compound, and only fill
them up to about 1/4 inch below the final level. The last pour would
then cover the entire area a bring it all up to final level. The
stuff is very strong, even in thin sections, so pouring a thin layer
is not a problem.

IIRC, if you pour multiple lifts within a certain time limit, you
don't have to use the bonding agent between layers, but if you wait
longer, then they recommend using the bonding agent.

One other point...the stuff is *expensive*, so for big areas or deep
sections, it might make more sense to float a conventional mortar bed,
at least in the deepest areas.

Paul Franklin