"No" wrote in :


Hey Brian - I'm not sure I can completely visualize what exactly
is your situation. Anyway, if I can restate the problem, as I
understand it, and the propose the best solution for the problem I
have stated. Here goes.

You have a flexible supply line for you dishwasher that failed due
to the routing requirements imposed by the type and position of
the supplies shutoff valve, additionally, your shut-off valve does
not completely shut off the water.

Ok, I wasn't completely clear. The routing problem was due to the
supply pipe itself, not the shutoff valve. The valve is under the sink
(the cabinet adjacent to the dishwasher space). The pipe then comes
through that cabinet wall. It's the length of that supply pipe, its
position, the larger bend radius of a steel supply line, and the frame
of that particular dishwasher.

The second part of the problem first - For a drippy valve you
usually do not need to replace the valve. A new washer is all that
would be required to fix that. You still may want to replace the
valve. Read on.

The problem with that is that it's a tight squeeze to even get in to
access the valve. As I haven't repaired a leaky faucet, I doubt this is
a good one to start with, if you see what I mean.

If you had a failure of your supply line caused by an awkward
valve location it could be appropriate to replace or move that
valve.

No, it's not the valve's fault for that. I was trying to come up with a
way to fix both problems in a way that didn't involve me trying to work
in extreme cramped quarters. The shutoff valve is behind the disposal,
next to the sink drain pipe. I'm also not a tiny guy.

I'm a plumbing novice, I'm ok with hooking up these compression
fittings, but have no experience elsewhere. The perils of too much
condo living before this.

Good luck, let us know if you have any further questions or want
some clarifications to what I have suggested. Also - Post back as
to what you ended up doing and how it turned out.

If someone has suggestions on how to come up with something like an
angle stop valve that would hook up to a 3/8 compression fitting, then
I'd try that. Otherwise, the tee connnector will probably be my
solution.


Brian