On 22 Dec 2005 09:21:24 -0800, "jrmfzf" wrote:

While looking through the instruction manual I've found out that
apparently the elements automatically turn off if the door is open on
this model. So this means that there might be power getting to the
elements, just not when the door is open for me to test it. I guess I
could try clipping on my multimeter to the terminals and then closing
the door and look through the oven window to see if it's getting power.
Anyone have any other suggestions?

Yeah, don't forget and leave the oven on with the meter inside or it
will melt.

But seriously, I think you are spinning your wheels doing things you
know how to do, but in this idea you're not going to accomplish
anything. You've already tested the element for continuity, and yet
it doesn't get hot. So there is something wrong with the power that
goes to it. And closing the door is not going to help.

I don't object to your proposed test, because testing the same thing
in different ways can be a good idea. Anyone can do a test wrong, or
make a mistake, or forget to turn the meter on when doing a test, etc.
etc. This is the same r eason we are taught, at least they used to
teach, children to add numbers from top to bottom, and then to check
by adding them from bottom to top. Because everyone makes mistakes
even with simple things and it is always good to double check and
better to do so with a test of a different sort.

However, while discontinuity would likely give NO result when you
test, continuity must have given a beep or a change in meter reading.
It's unlikely you did it wrong.
'
That leaves possible shorts and the wiring. A coil can short or two
wires parallel to each other can short, but a heating element that is
two feet long, where the power goes in one end and out the other,
can't short more than a tiny bit. (If there is a coil inside the
element, one winding might short, but since the element is 2 feet
long, it can't short from one end to the other because there are two
feet in between.)

As to wiring, you did plug both ends of the element in its connector,
right. You didn't just make a stab at it and then screw the element
to the wall of the oven, right. So that settles the wiring.

If there were a short in the wiring, btw, you'd know it.

So what you're going to have to do is take the back off the oven and
do more measurements.

I am not an applicance repairman by trade and so I have no idea what
the model number means.

When you say control panel, how complicated are we talking? Do you
still have an oven/broiler switch, or is this controlled
electronically. (even then I'm sure there is a relay somewhere.) I
see you didn't say if the broiler works. Does it?

Stop spinning your wheels and think about other parts of the
appliance. If the broiler works and the oven doesn't and there is an
oven/broiler switch, the odds are 99% that the problem is the switch.
A meter will tell for sure.


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me know if you have posted also.