I do this a lot. You generally go around the piece counterclockwise. When I
get to a place where the grain is ending, such as at a curve, I feed
backwards in small bites. When it is very close to flush I feed the proper
direction. I think feeding back wards is called climb cutting. The blade has
to be very sharp to cut end grain and you have to have a very steady hand
and take small bites.
max

I'm building an English garden bench out of redwood. To cut the
curved pieces (legs and arms) I do the following:

1. created clean templates of curved pieces out of 1/4" tempered
hardboard,
2. traced the pattern outline on the piece,
3. rough cut to within 1/8" of the outline using a jigsaw (do not own a
BS)
4. attach template using double face tape to top of rough cut piece.
5. Use 2" flush trim bit (top pilot) on router table to trim to
pattern.

The problem I am having is that when I do the flush trimming, it trims
95% of the time OK but occasionally, I get chipout and chunks are taken
out of the piece along the edge I am routing flush to the template.

The lumber is kiln dried clear all heart (CAH) redwood that is
dimensioned lumber (1 1/2" thick). It is beautiful wood (but
expensive), very soft, and seems very dry and splinters easily.

I take the trimming operation very slowly but still get the problem.
The bit is a 1/2" shank, dual flute, 2" flush trim bit Rockler house
brand. I've even tried climb cutting but the operation is very
difficult.

Either it is my technique or just a result of this wood species.
Maybe kiln dried redwood heartwood is just too frail for this type of
operation. The plans called for using a bandsaw to cut to shape --
using the pattern and flush trim bit is my idea.

Any suggestions?