"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:LEBpf.299$dh2.293@trndny08...

"GB" wrote in message
news:1135009577.177722@sj-nntpcache-3...
I'm in the process of getting quotes for hydronic radiant floor heating
to be added to my 1st floor of my 100 yr. old house. I live in NH and
the winters are cold and the woeful baseboards can not keep up.
I'm thinking heated floors would be a great addition for
comfort/convenience/efficiency/resale value.


Why does the baseboard not keep up? If the boiler is not putting out
sufficient heat, the radiant heat will be no better. It takes a certain
amount of Btu's to heat the house no matter what type of system you use.

Is the radiant heat going to run off the same boiler or an additional one?
If the same, thee are water temperature considerations. Before you spend a
lot of money, be sure you have the figures as to how much heat you need
and be sure you have the ability to generate it.


The baseboard is woefully under spec'd for the home.
Original house has huge cast iron radiators.
Previous owner decided to add baseboard by himself.
He ripped out all the rads and mickey-moused a baseboard setup.

HVAC company came in and did a calculated heat load for my house and my
system.
There should be X amount of feet in each room and I'm anywhere from 5-12
feet short of baseboard in various rooms.
The runs is not in a "loop" but each baseboard is tapped off the supply line
and returned to the supply line with tees.
Also...the baseboard supply lines are 1/2" from the boiler.

HVAC company wants to pull it all out, replace with 3/4" feeds and add
baseboards in a bunch of rooms.
He quoted around $2600 for this work.
An additional quote was near that so I'm not too keen on that since the
contractor said "That might do it".

If I'm going to pay that much, I'm gonna go the whole boat to a radiant
heating system.
More energy efficient, nicer heat, warm floors, etc....
High initial cost but that's OK. I can suck it up. I'm sure the benefits
will be worth it in the end.

I've been in a couple of homes that have this retrofit and both had the
tubes suspended in the joist bay, not stapled directly to the subfloor.
Apparently, if you insulate well, it's not that much more inefficient than
the aluminum plates stapled to the subfloor.
I've heard from many that this methods is noisy as the plates
expand/contract.
If you ever add hardwood flooring, nails can penetrate the PEX tubing during
install.
Hanging them 1" down the joist helps alleviate this possible problem.

Plus, when I remodel a couple of the rooms next year,
baseboards won't be in the way of new drywall/plaster and furniture can be
pushed up against the wall...along with TVs and stereo equipment.