You've actually posted the only sane response in several of the
last ones I've read on this thread, mostly out of curiousity.
Just for grins, I'm pasting here the response I made much deeper
in one of the side strings:
Good Grief Charlie Brown!
The fan coming on for a minute or so after the furnace has
fired is NORMAL operation, whether it happened last year or not!
IFF it was the thermostat calling for heat, this suggestion
could be valid, but, out of curiousity I just pulled up the whole
thread and read it thru: in amongst all the misinformation not a
single poster has noted that the post-burn fan operation is a
normal event.
It's easy enough to get rid of IFF one knows what the various
sensors do and when, but I'm suggesting that no one who has
posted here (with a couple of exceptions, I think, because of the
awkward direction of the thread), has any REAL idea what they're
talking about.
The post-burn runtime is simply because the fan cooled the
compartment where the sensor is, the residual heat buildup then
took over, it came back on for a minute to push out the last
little bit of heat, and then turned off.
You CAN maladjust these things so that the furnace runs too
long or not long enough, resulting in the fan going off while the
air is still hot (wasting fuel), or the fan stays on so long it
ends up blowing cool air before it turns off, or, ideally, the
air temp coming out of the blower us just right when it turns off
and then comes back on for a short time to shake out the last few
drops of heat that are left but aren't too cool to use yet.
I refuse to detail how to do any of that, because the resetting
of the anticipator from a .4 to .8 is already enough to have
goofed up the overall balance - further fiddling can only make
things worse. There ARE valid ways to set up the anticipator,
and in fact, they were detailed on the packaging or papers with
the newly purchased thermostat. This little detail was neglected
by everyone and near as I can recall, no one suggested checking
what the last thermostat was set for, which, apparently is a
perfectly good thermostat.
In checking over the headers of these posts, I also suspect that
should actually be CROCKydile, and I also
respectfully submit that many of you have just been hooked on a
troll line. A mental comparison, without any real work involved,
says to me that this is an imposter and has posted here under
several other names in the recent past. Hasn't AnyONE NOTICED a
similarity to any of this kind of post and some of the others?
Good grief, Charlie Brown! Oh well, it's entertaining if
nothing else, but it encourages them.
Pop
"Bill" wrote in message
...
: This does not seem right as everybody I know who installs new
windows sees a
: reduction in their heating requirements.
:
: Are you looking at the amount of gas used or just the cost?
Rates have gone
: up.
:
: Also I don't know if this would have anything to do with it,
but perhaps
: installing the new windows sealed your house tight so no air
can get in. Is
: there a vent by the furnace so it can get air? Is the vent
open?
:
: Then around here (Oregon), last winter was mild. This winter it
has been
: quite cold. So last year, 40's/50's was common. This year it
has been
: colder - in the 20's for several days now with highs in the
30's. My
: neighbor has not changed anything and her bill has gone up
quite a bit from
: last year.
:
: Ask your neighbors if their bills have gone up as well.
:
: Overall if you want to reduce your heating and electric costs,
read the info
: at the following site. You can get "Energy Star" appliances, a
98% high
: efficency furnace, add insulation, seal air leaks, etc...
: http://www.energystar.gov
:
:
: