Yabut this isn't 1924 anymore. Applicationmethods and materials have
advanced to the point where final film properties are key rather than "can
the material be applied at all". I mean we don't use colours in lead and
painstakingly mix material on the job.

--


"Stephen Hull" wrote in message
...
In message ExFnf.147463$S4.8920@edtnps84
"Grolsch" wrote:

Raw Linseed Oil! I don't think I'd add a non-drying oil because of the
effect on final cure and film properties. Adding a little boiled
linseed oil would work though. A trick we used to use when painting
gloss enamels in cold weather was to add a touch of boiled oil AND a
touch of Japan Driers. This improved flow-out while still able to cure a
reasonable rate.

Indeed,

However during certain coachpainting processes Raw linseed oil was added
because it is a (less cooked) slow drying oil that did slow down the
faster drying oil paints and varnishes, which already contained a high
proportion of driers, thus gave an overall better drying balance.

It was not uncommon with certain pigments when applying paint by brush
to paint a complete panel, then go for lunch and return an hour later
and the panel could still be layed off. This was only necessary on
troublesome pigments where the naturally slow flowing out properties had
been undermined by faster acting driers which the painter had no real
control over being already pre-manufactured paint etc.

Steve.



--
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