DIYbanter - View Single Post

wrote:
Mac,
Learned what I know working with my husband, professional tile
installation, all applications, in Florida.

1) Use mastic, not thinset to set 1/2" durock (permabase). Butt sheets
up, their slight variance will give you all tolerance required.

Why do you feel your way is better than what the manufacturer
recommends? This from National Gypsum's web site:

Can I attach PermaBase directly to my floor or countertop?
No. Using a 1/4" square notched trowel, apply a setting bed of
latex-Portland cement mortar to the subfloor or base and immediately
laminate the PermaBase, leaving a 1/8" space between adjoining pieces.
Make sure you have a minimum of 3/4" exterior plywood/OSB as a subfloor
or base and that the framing members don't exceed 19.2"o.c

2) we typically use 1-1/4" coarse thread drywall screws about every 8
-10 inches to further secure the rock.

Again from the NG web site:
What type of fasteners do I use?

Either a 1 1/2" galvanized roofing nail or 1 1/4" cement backer board
type screw are used with wood framing. If you are attaching the
PermaBase to 20 gauge or heavier metal framing, use 1 5/8" S-12 cement
backer board screws. DO NOT use typical drywall screws.

Notice the capital letters? Drywall screws are definitely not
recommended.

3) get out of the tech sheets and go to the local dealer who sells to
the pros, (ie: Wholesale tile stores). If you see anyone in an orange
apron RUN!!!

I'd agree with you if you said to go to the pros for tile advice
instead of a big box store. Regardless of where you buy the material,
if you follow the manufacturer's installation instructions you'll
rarely go wrong. If not...you're on your own.

R