Raw Linseed Oil! I don't think I'd add a non-drying oil because of the
effect on final cure and film properties. Adding a little boiled linseed oil
would work though. A trick we used to use when painting gloss enamels in
cold weather was to add a touch of boiled oil AND a touch of Japan Driers.
This improved flow-out while still able to cure a reasonable rate.


--


"Ken Moiarty" wrote in message
news:fKOif.648108$tl2.646851@pd7tw3no...

"Stephen Hull" wrote
[...]
Air bubbles can sometimes be avoided by not over brushing and should be
eliminated completely by adding a little raw linseed oil to ease off
the faster drying properties associated with polyurathane finishing.

Steve.


Hmmm... Raw linseed oil to delay drying, eh... I'll be giving this a
try. I didn't know I could delay the drying time of Varathane, being that,
ostensibly, unlike ordinary oil-based paints polyurethane solidifies not
by solvent evaporation but by the chemical reaction of isocyanate reacting
with the moisture in the air (which, as an interesting aside, is known to
release CO2). Yet, there's obviously already some oil in this "oil-based"
polyurethane product and this may, for all I know, perform discrete
functions beyond the obvious. So who knows? It seems to me that this
Varathane sets up so quickly, losing its ability to flow freely so soon,
that the holes left by the bubbles don't have a chance to fill themselves
back in. So maybe this will be the key. Thanks.

Ken