Thread: impact wrench
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Bruce L. Bergman
 
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Default impact wrench

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 13:09:58 GMT, "habbi"
wrote:
"Jerry Foster" wrote in message
.com...
"habbi" wrote in message
...


Would you guys using Outhouse Express please watch how the quotes are
getting mangled? Turn off word wrap for quoted text, or turn it off
totally and wrap by hand...

I have what I thought was a decent quality cambell hausfeld 1/2"
gun which is rated at 380 ftlbs. All fitting are 1/4" M style
and hose is 25' 3/8" ID. It will not remove my lug nuts from
my chev 1/2 ton truck. I tried pressures from 90 up to 120 psi
with no luck. It removed a few of them but some will not loosen
at all. I am using 1/2" drive impact sockets as well. Anyway
are these guns over rated, it is made in Taiwan. I noticed
some ingersoll rand and even sears brands rated up to 600-700
ftlbs, is this what I need. I tried a friends Chicago pneumatic
and it would not spin the nuts either. Also there is an Allen
set screw type plug in the side of the gun and it says oil,
how do you know how much to put in? Thanks


I have a CHEAP (HF) impact wrench and am well satisfied with it.
I doubt it would stand up long under day in and day out use, but...


But if you were using it all day, every day, you could spring for a
pro-level gun from Ingersoll-Rand or such. The decent cheapies will
live a long time in weekend service if properly cared for.

Anyhow, a friend brought me his van that someone had nailed the
lug nuts and he'd snapped a lug wrench trying to change a tire.
The impact wrench pounded on a few of them for a while before
they came, but they all loosened. (He then re-tightened them
by hand to a more reasonable level...)

I had a lug nut on my pickup that someone probably cross-
threaded and then drove it home with an impact wrench. It
wouldn't come for ANYTHING. We put a big impact wrench on it
and snapped the stud (fortunately, studs are cheap and usually
easy to replace...).


If a gorilla at the tire store cranks them on to 100 yard-tons ;-)
with a Pro gun, they are not going to budge without a similar force
being exerted to loosen - that or a 'hot wrench' or a nutcracker.

As to you question about oil, two or three drops is usually
enough. If you put in too much, it won't stay in it for long...
The excess will come spraying out the tool exhaust and usually
up your sleeve, in your face or in some other "convenient"
place... Air tool oil is cheap and a properly oiled tool
is a heck of a lot more powerful than one that is dry...


Are you talking about adding oil to the air inlet? If so that makes sense
but my gun has an additional oil inlet which you have to remove a plug to
get to, I assume this oil stays in the gun.


The oil that goes in the air inlet line is to lubricate the air
motor section, and is a 'total loss' system - the oil will be carried
out the exhaust. If you want to forget about adding a few drops of
oil each use you can run a mist oiler in-line, but be sure to keep the
tool hoses (with the oil residue inside) separate from the car
painting hoses where oil in the air is a Very Bad Thing.

The "OIL" plug on the front of the gun is for the reduction gear
section and probably the hammer system. It's supposed to be sealed
inside, but as we all know "Leakproof Seals Will."

For the type and weight oil in the gearbox, and how much you need to
add, Read The Friendly Manual for the maintenance instructions...
They're probably he http://www.chpower.com/index.asp

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
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