"Pete C." wrote in message
...
ATP* wrote:

"badaztek" wrote in message
...
2.Using anti seize is not to be used because it can cause the lug nuts
to come loose and I have seen it happen

It reduces the required torque but will not cause the nuts to come loose.
Obviously there are plenty of applications that have lubricants on the
threads and the nuts don't spin off. Quite a few tire mechanics use
anti-seize on truck studs and the wheels aren't flying off all over the
nation's highways.



When the nut is torqued, the stud is elongated and the
resulting tension is what keeps the lugnut on, not the friction against
the
threads.

Er, that can't possibly be true, think ball screws which have very low
friction on the threads and can be readily driven by axial loads. If the
friction on the threads is reduced sufficiently by some lubricant, when
coupled with the vibration and rolling stresses in the wheel it is quite
likely that the lug nuts will slowly creep looser.

You're right. I should have said dry friction is not always necessary to
hold a fastener on. A lubricated assembly will still resist turning when
it's torqued down if there is sufficient torque. The bolt/stud is deformed
(stretched by torquing down the nut). That's not the case in a free-running
ball screw. The thread geometry is also different.

What would usually prevent this is the tapered or flat seat against the
wheel surface which people usually don't put the anti-seize on. The high
friction coupled with the large surface area and large radius all
combine to provide quite a bit of resistance to rotation.

Pete C.

I agree the amount of anti-seize should be very minimal and only applied to
the stud. I think completely dry assembly, especially on older trucks, could
lead to stud damage from the excessively high torque required to remove the
lugnuts.

http://euler9.tripod.com/fasteners/preload.html