Gogs wrote:

Can I confirm that the actual supplied blade is only about 12/16 tooth.
surely I dont want to be attempting to cut the worktop or even units
back with that do I.

I was hoping the summit or silverline blades might be ok since they are
quite a good price, has anyone never used the summit ones.

I have read various opinions online about setting the depth some seem
to say to adjust it to slightly deeper than the cut by say 5mm or so
but opinion

I've tried both, and setting the blade shallow gives a messier cut and
makes the saw a pig to handle. When the blade's deep, the forces on the
wood push it up towards the baseplate, thus dont interfere with your
job, that of guiding the thing forward. With a shallow blade, the
forces are mostly at 90 degrees to that, and the forces vary as the
blade vibrates and wood edge is less than perfectly smooth. You have to
guide the saw directly against those unsteady forces.

The sticking out blade is not guarded, its bare, but a shallow setting
makes a saw much less stable to handle, and much more prone to kicking.
When the blade is set deep, it can catch all it likes and youre at no
risk, because of the direction of the forces. If it catches when set
shallow, it can pull the saw outta your hand, and cause it to jump up
at the same time.


It is black worktop so not chipping it is essential as guessing it
would show really bad

If I need a perfect cut with a basic coarse blade, I put the workpiece
on a bit of scrap and cut thru both together. Hardboard is fine for
this. Also go easy, the harder you push, the rougher the cut.


I dont know much about differing blade brands, but I've also used a
rock bottom price Kinzo mitre saw, and the cuts on it are ok. Unlike
the PPPro mitre I saw the other day, my god, flap wobble.


NT