Thread: GFCI device
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Default GFCI device

GFCI breakers usually cost 2X to 3X more than GFCI receptacles. The
test button is on the breaker rather than on a receptacle which is
usually more inconvenient and results in less frequent testing. Because
the entire circuit is on GFCI, nuisance tripping can be more frequent.
I've had problems with fluorescent lights with magnetic ballasts causing
nuisance tripping of GFCI breakers when the lights are switched to the
off position. The collapse of the magnetic field in the ballast when
the switch was put to off apparently caused a small current pulse
through the neutral and tripped the GFCI. In one case because of this,
I had to take out a GFCI breaker and install GFCI receptacles.

A GFCI breaker works best when the circuit will have only multiple
outlets that require GFCI by code and where the breaker panel is
reasonably convenient for periodic testing.

Mike
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Vince wrote:
I am aware that GFCI circuit breakers exist, but when installing an
additional 15 ampere branch circuit, an electrician installed a GFCI
device within an one gang electrical box. How does such a GFCI device
compare to use of a GFCI circuit breaker ? Cost? Reliability? False
alarms ?

How might I go about testing the newly installed GFCI device ?

The additional GFCI branch circuit is required for running a Panasonic
exhaust fan within the wet area.

If I had known of such independent GFCI devices, I would have made use
of it rather than individual GFCI duplex outlets when I added a
circuit branch for auxillary outdoor and garage duplex outlets.