"SY Chun" wrote in message ...
Dear Arfa,

I was able to locate those 3 electrolytics and confirm that leakage from the middle one!!! It caused the neighboring parts and plated holes spoiled and eroded. Now my quest is how and where to get the surface mount electrolytics...

Thanks for your wonderful help and amazing knowledge!

SY
Hi there

You should be able to get exact replacements, or similar types, from
virtually any regular component supplier. You can get away with slightly
higher voltage working ones, which are more readily available. If memory
serves, the originals are rated at 4v working, and replacements at 6.3v
working are more readily available. However, they are slightly larger, so
you've got to be a bit a bit more careful fitting them.

I don't know whereabouts in the world you are, but here in the UK, they are
available from www.chsinteractive.co.uk under part number
5397736 but they are special order, which is usually 7 -10 days delay,
and I don't know if they have international shipping arrangements. The
manufacturer seems to be Jaeger, so maybe you could do a search on that.

When you come to fit replacements, it is essential that all of the leaked
electrolyte is removed from the board, and the affected area chemically
neutralised. You can do this using electronics grade ( 99.7% ) isopropyl
alcohol, and an old toothbrush.

Also, it is essential, if it is to ever work again, that the damaged through
plated holes are properly dealt with. Use a strong magnifier, or jeweller's
eyepiece to examine the areas where the tracks join the edges of the
affected holes. You will often find that if you give this area a little
scrape with a blunt curve-blade scalpel edge to remove the blackening, that
the actual track is eaten away. As I recall, it's difficult to see where at
least one of the tracks finally goes to, as once it has gone to the
underside of the board, it goes for a short distance, then comes up again
through another through plated hole to the top of the board, but under the
servo processor IC, where you then can't see what pin it finishes up at.

At a pinch, you can carefully drill out any affected holes where you can get
at both sides, using a model-makers drill, and feed a thin wire through the
hole, soldering to the nearest piece of undamaged track on the run to the
hole, on both sides.

If you can tell me the model number of the CD player, I might have the
manual, or a similar one that we can use to determine exactly to where each
cap is ultimately connected.

I have done many of these over the years, though not so many recently, as
they are getting old now. They are definitely always repairable in the end,
but require much patience to repair the damage caused, and may cause you
more than a little frustration along the way ...

Arfa