In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

Hi Folks,
Just mumbling out loud here to see what others think:

Our builder has (unusually?) told us that he's happy to erect our new
conservatory
over the Christmas holiday period, providing that the brickwork can of
course be
put in place by then.

This has caused me to think seriously about heating the new space.
I've never owned
a conservatory before, so it's all new to me.

Present proposition is to add three wall radiators to the dwarf-walled
conservatory
and run these off my mains gas wet central heating system.

Being careful with the pennies, I was thinking of adding a two-port
valve to the feed
for these radiators, and then controlling this valve from (say) some
sort of timer
such as an immersion-heater-booster device as per shown on the TLC web
site
he

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...s_2/index.html

Prior to using the space, I merely press the button for (say) a
two-hour duration and this
opens the valve for that time.
I'll leave the house stat to decide whether the boiler needs fired,
and also I'll add
Thermostatic Radiator Valves to the three radiators too.

Of course, this arrangement does not guarantee that the boiler will
fire when the
conservatory needs it, but I'm hoping that that will not be a problem
(fingers crossed;
this is where your opinion is sought).

Instead of fancy Frost Stats I was thinking of adding an electric
panel radiator to
the conservatory whose thermostat is set quite low.
Thus when the outside temperature plummets and there is a risk of the
conservatory
radiators freezing, the electric panel cuts in and lifts the
temperature to avoid this.

Perhaps another immersion-heater-booster switch could be wired to
override the
thermostat to kick the electric panel in if required.

Any problems with my scheme?

Any source of an electric-booster switch with more flexibility than
that shown on
the TLC site?

Advice requested; thanks in advance.

Mungo

How is the existing heating system zoned? If you already have an S-Plan
system, you could add another zone - but you'd have to connect in at the
current split point rather than tapping into an existing heating zone. You
could then use the secondary contacts on the new zone valve to bring the
boiler (and pump) on when required - independently of the other zones.

I would control the valve with a programmable room stat such as the
Honeywell CM67. This acts as a frost stat in its 'off' state and will turn
the heating on in the zone it controls when necessary to prevent freezing.
You can normally leave it on a low setting, and then use it's 'party'
setting when you want it hotter for a period. This lets you specify a higher
(or lower!) temperature for a specified number of hours.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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