View Single Post
  #13   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
Frank Boettcher
 
Posts: n/a
Default How to undo a Titebond III joint.

On Thu, 01 Dec 2005 11:00:15 GMT, "Charles Self"
wrote:


"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
.. .
On 30 Nov 2005 09:20:22 -0800, "jtpr" wrote:

Any ideas on getting the piece of poplar out without ruining the bird's
eye?


Heat gun, be quick about it. If it's within the first day, the stuff
comes apart pretty easily.


Good. One question that comes to my mind every time someone needs to make
changes in a project glued up with TB II or III or polyurethane is why they
build a project intended for total indoor use with waterproof, nearly
solvent proof, adhesive?

Just curious. Did TB I quit working a couple years ago? A bit of steam and
that allows joint changes. I also seem to recall hearing that all the great
instrument builders--Amati, Strad, et al--were stuck with using hide glue,
which is readily reversible, and apparently also gives the best sound (can't
tell by my ears, with 50% of my hearing gone).


wooden Instrument makers still use hide glue because often times when
making a repair on a stringed instrument you have to disassemble parts
that are fine to get to the repair. My son wrecked his double bass
recently and I've done a lot of research into the subject in
anticipation of making the repairs. Apparently, a heated knife and a
drop of alcohol will part hide glue seams.

However, you do not want to leave your wooden stringed instrument in
the car, in Mississipp,i in the summer. I can assure you it will do
it no good.

Frank

I know none of that is much help in retrospect, but it seems like something
others might want to think of when assembling most furniture and musical
instruments...and most toys for that matter.