I don't have the original post, but one glaring fact is
repeated in all responses read. First inspected is coax cable
where it enter the building. As even required by National
Electrical Code (NEC), that cable must connect to same earth
ground used by telephone and AC electric breaker box. This
hardwire connects cable ground block where cable enters the
building. Even connection via a faucet or water pipe is not
acceptable nor sufficient. It must be a dedicated and
conductive ground connection - less than 20 feet per NEC.

All incoming utilities must make direct connections to a
common ground. That means no utility will float to a different
voltage. This grounding required so that humans don't get
electrical shocks (human safety) AND so that household
transistors are not damaged (transistor safety).

Every cable appliance should be galvanically isolated from
cable. That means, even if power plug is reversed (what that
three light tester tests), still, no significant current
should exist on coax. Notice redundant layers of protection.
AC power plug properly polarized. Coax cable connection
galvanically isolated. Cable earthed before entering house.
To be shocked, multiple problems may exist. This sentence is
very important to your analysis. Multiple problems may exist
to create shocks.

Curious that current does not occur when one appliance is
connected through another. That suggests one appliance has an
internal fault. A fault made irrelevant by galvanic isolation
in the second (electrically closer) appliance.

Most of your previous responses are shotgunning - try this
and try that. Nonsense. Start that the most important part
and proceed in an organized manner. Does AC electric,
telephone, and coax cable all connect to same earth ground
before entering the building? This may or may not be a
solution. But you cannot test for it. Visually inspect this
requirement; correct as necessary. Then move on to other
possible reasons for failure. Remember, to have a problem,
you would have multiple failures. Find at least two. Maybe
unfix the first located solution so that you can find the
other failure.

Meanwhile, what does that six outlet protector do? Makes
the typically destructive surge easier to damage transistors.
It does protect from a type of surge that typically does not
damage transistors. That being sufficient to claim it is a
surge protector - and for you to 'assume' it protects from all
kinds of surges. The best power strip is about $3+ dollars
from Walmart, Lowes, or Home Depot; has the all so critical 15
amp circuit breaker (for human protection); and has UL
approval.

Review what some power strip protectors have done
previously. Where is your's located - behind the furniture in
a dust pile?
http://www.westwhitelandfire.com/Art...Protectors.pdf
http://www.nmsu.edu/~safety/programs...tectorfire.htm
http://www.ehs.washington.edu/LabSaf/surge.htm
http://www.hanford.gov/rl/?page=556&parent=554

Internal protection already inside electronics can be
overwhelmed if destructive transients are not earth before
entering the building. Effective protection makes a 'less
than 10 foot' connection to that common earth ground inspected
above. Effective 'whole house' protectors have responsible
manufacturer names such as Square D, Leviton, Polyphaser,
Intermatic (in Home Depot), Siemens, and GE and Cutler Hammer
(Lowes). They also cost tens of times less money per
protected appliance compared to the ineffective and highly
touted plug-in protector names.

Don't make assumptions about that three light tester. It
can detect failures BUT it cannot fully prove a receptacle is
wired correctly. It can detect a wiring problem but cannot
prove wiring as correct. What tester does report suggests
receptacle polarity reversal is not a problem. It does not
say, for example, that necessary safety ground from breaker
box to earth is installed or exists. For that failure - one
possible reason for the problem - you must visually inspect
then entire connection from breaker box to earth ground.

miamicuse wrote:
I have a TV, a DVD player and a VHS player hooked up at that location.
All the plugs have a "wide" leg and a "skinny" leg. They are all
plugged into a six port surge protector which is plugged into a single
outlet. The coax cable from the attic feeds into the VHS player, and
another coax goes from the VHS player to the TV.

If I unplug the cable to the VHS player but plug it into the TV
directly, there is no current.

I bought a $5.00 three wire circult analyzer and plugged it into the
surge protector outlet and the two yellow light lit up but not the
red light. So if I am reading the instructions right it means it's
wired correctly.

Where should I go look next?