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Harold and Susan Vordos
 
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Default shop made reamer described by Gingery


"F. George McDuffee" wrote in message
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On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 18:07:07 -0800, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"F. George McDuffee" wrote in message
.. .
Do it the easy way.

Assuming you don't have a sunnen hone, see if your brake cylinder
hone will go small enough. If not cut a slot in a steel rod that
will go in the bore and but a strip of emory paper in the slot.
Hold the rod in the drill press and work the gear up and down.
Easy to take out a few thousandths and/or slick up/debur the bore
by using correct grit paper.

Uncle George


No doubt it works, but it's a bitch to avoid bell mouth, or to control

size.
I do not support a brake cylinder hone when size or configuration is
critical. They have the potential to destroy an accurate bore.

Harold

And how is this a problem with idler gears? For grins measure up
some well used but still functional change or idler gears and see
how the bores measure. It all depends if you want to machine
perfection or cut metal .... i.e. when is 'good enough' good
enough.

Uncle George


It also depends on if you'd like to establish concentricity and
perpindicularity, or can live with runout. Not a great idea with gears.
The point is there's better ways to do a job like that, with less effort and
better results. There's no such thing as "good enough" when it gets down
to gears meshing. They're right, or they aren't. Well used gears that have
excessive wear, idlers, or not, are called "worn out".

Harold