I used zinssers on my pine window trim with 2 coats semigloss and i am
starting to see some knot stains coming through. Just installed this
summer.

CathyLee


"crmay" wrote in message
ps.com...
Hi,

I'm considering painting a pine kitchen and would like anyones
comments/feedback/experiences with the procedure.

I haven't yet purchased the kitchen cabinets, basically still
exploring
the options. The final goal is to have glossy white cabinets in a
hard
wearing finish. Cabinets of this style purchased from a showroom are
way beyond my budget and as a result I've been exploring alternatives.
One of the options is to purchase a timber kitchen and spray it
myself.
I have access to a large compressor and finishing gun, in addition to
some experience spraying cars, and just recently some BIR cabinet
doors
(enamel). A couple of oak kitchen cabinet sets have been available,
though i think it would be ashame to spoil a good hardwood finish. I
feel no remorse for pine.

The cabinets are basic melamine with pine door/drawer fronts. The
pine
appears to be varnished. I first plan to remove the doors, clean them
and give them a light sanding with a random orbital sander (approx
400)
then sanding the routed grooves by hand. I'll fill any scratches or
dents with builders bog, sand smooth, then seal the surface spraying a
product similar to the following:

http://www.zinsser.com.au/html/Zinsser_PD_BIN.htm

This product is supposed to seal the timber and somehow assist in
raising the grain to enable the surface to be buffed to a flat solid
state. I think this is the critical stage because I don't want the
grain to show through at all and would like the finish to be
consistent
for quite a few years. I've heard that timber will expand/contract
during different seasons and as pine is a softwood, i imagine it would
be more suseptable to this than hardwood? Could this be a potential
problem?

I'd sand again using 400 grit disk, then i was contemplating using an
automotive high-fill primer? I'm guessing this should stick quite
well
to the prevous product and provide a good basis for an automotive
finish. I'd probably use a wet 400 grit paper and block sand until
the
surface was flat and free of "orange peal", then towel dry.

I'm still trying to decide wheather to use a 2 pac finish or an
acrylic/thinners based paint. I've rolled timber floors using a two
part finish, though I've never sprayed using it. In saying that, the
reason for selecting the automotive finish is due to the
discolouration
"yellowing" of house paints when exposed to UV... this isn't supposed
to happen to automotive paints.

Finally, I would probably take the doors to an automotive detailer to
have then cut and polished!

If anyone has done something similar to this, I'm very keen to hear
your comments/suggestions.

Cheers