Follow-up for the group:

Turns out the problem was that GE moved the door-close sensor switch
from the inside hinge to the top. Then they put on an adjustable
fresh-food door with a teflon washer. As the door gradually drops thru
use, it fails to trip the switch. So...the fridge thinks the door is
open (and the lights stay on). The compressor is unable to overcome
the heat generated from 2 60 watt bulbs and the fridge compartment
overheats. Eventually, the fridge shuts off because it thinks the door
was left open too long (symptom: LEDs shut off). The problem with
freezer sometimes getting too warm is that it draws it's air from the
fridge. Once the fridge is 70, it's hard for the freezer to stay at
zero.

The fix is to make sure the fridge door is adjusted at least as high as
the freezer door...if it's 1/8" lower, it's probably not tripping the
door-close switch.

wrote:
I have a 2 year old GE side-by-side refrigerator (model GSS22GSPC) that
sporadically fails to cool. It might work fine for a day or a week,
then I open it and it's 40 in the freezer and 70 in the fridge.
Another recent symptom is that the digital readouts for setting
coldness sometimes don't light up when the door is opened. Most of
the time (possibly always?), cold air starts flowing if unplug the
fridge, then plug it back in.