Jim:

I sort of used your suggestion.

I cut a piece of wood triangular in shape, sort of matching the space
between the nut edge and the cabinet wall. I then drilled a hole into the
wood and thread a steel rod I have laying around. I wedged the piece of
wood from below to "jam" the space so the nut will not be able to turn from
below, as I ask a friend to turn the faucet in reverse direction on top.
After a few tries it seem to do the trick.

MC

"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
news
miamicuse wrote:

OK after I spent a lot of time dis-assembling an old corroded kitchen
faucet
here is a new one I am installing.

Everything is smooth, I lowered the faucet (has two water supply tubes
and a
pull out spray) so I got the washer and the big but and I tighten it
from
below where your whole body is twisted into this unbearable form inside
the
cabinet and under the waste pipes and garbage disposal so you can see
just a
little bit what you are doing. You try your best to tighten this big
nut
and when you are done you hook everything up and open the water and
good -
water out.

So you turn on turn off a few times and the faucet is sort of heavy and
after a few times it starts to wobble a bit. So you get under the sink
and
strange enough the big nut you tightened is now loose so you tighten it
again. Try again and after a few times you have to go under to tighten
it
again. There is no leverage there to use any wrench, well even my
biggest
adjustable wrench won't be big enough and even if it were, there is no
room
to turn one degree.

You may be right to pull the whole sink.
Typically that "big" nut does not leave room even for
a basin wrench to grip it. And the nut must be **real**
tight, or else....

It will be a project though. The sink rim, the countertop,
the disposal and waste piping.

Sit back and have a cold one.

Haven't considered it before, but would it be worthwhile
making a "wrench" to hold the nut while spinning the faucet body
to tighten?

Jim