wrote:
On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 18:57:28 -0600, "Snag"
wrote:

Being the cheapskate that I am , I have decided to rework original
rather than replace some of the parts on the 1939 H-D I'm rebuilding
(not "restoring" !) . Some of the parts I have decided to rework are
the lower rockers on the springer front end (where the wheel mounts
...). More to the point , I need to decide what to make the rocker
bushings from . The originals are steel , and just a bit softer than
a knife blade . A file will mark it , but not deeply . The rocker
studs seem to be mild steel , at least they machined easily . I am
considering case hardening the wear surfaces ... bushings are
cheaper than studs . The bushings will be about 1" OD X .875" long
, with a wall thickness of either .150" or .165" , depending on
which location they're in . I have very limited experience with
material selection (unless you want
to build some cabinets or a receptionist's desk ---) and have no
idea what alloy would be best for these bushings . Anybody care to
venture an opinion ?

Well **** Snag, if yer really a cheapskate, buy these (scroll down a
ways): http://www.aaok.com/partsections/frontend.html According to
my math, that's only $9.00 per for all four. I sure as hell couldn't
make 'em for less than that.

I will be making some bearing cups to replace the ball bearings in
the steering neck with a tapered roller , and need some suggestions
there also . Thanks !

And why do ya want to do that? Those old ball bearings last for 100's
of thousands of miles. I switched to tapered rollers in my '37 Knuck
once and went back to ball bearings after about 30k miles. If yer
bound and determined to go with tapered anyway, they're (cups)
available from Ted's V-Twin for *way* less than you could make 'em
too.

Snarl

That'll be 2 Coors twice and eight bucks for Snarl . The link itself is
worth more than that !!
Actually , two feet of 4140 (1" and inch a quarter) and a foot of 1" ampco
18 cost me less than the bushing set . Part of the reason I'm making them is
because the studs were worn , and I turned them down just to clean-up ,
rears at .699" and fronts are .674" now . The other part is the personal
satisfaction of saying I did it myself ...
Got the set for the sprung leg almost made already , just gotta turn a few
thou offa the outside to get a .001" tight press fit . I'll hone them a bit
after they're pressed in for final fit . Got the others roughed on the same
piece of stock , just a few passes with a boring bar and finish size the
outside . Do you know if the studs were originally case-hardened ? These
seemed pretty soft , machined easily , but they were worn .
Got a new top race coming , I think that'll be everything but the balls -
I'm taking your advice on that one . My goal for this winter is to get that
chassis rollin' - maybe then I'll be more motivated to get it finished .
Been sitting out there since '98 , way too long .

--
Snag aka OSG #1
'76 FLH "Bag Lady"
BS132 SENS NEWT
"A hand shift is a manly shift ."
shamelessly stolen
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