JRH wrote:

Hi

As an absolute novice, I'd be really grateful if you guys (and girls) could
help me out on how to cut small plastic (acrylic) mirrors and some practical
advice about what equipment I need to buy.

As background, I run a small ceramic/pottery shop and want to make some
hand-held vanity mirrors. I have sourced a supplier (around £80 for a 8' x
4' sheet, 3mm thick) but the cost of them to cut the mirrors for me is very
prohibitive and so I need to cut (and finish) them myself. Ideally they need
to be oval (aound 5" x 4") but if this is difficult then a 4" diameter
circle might be acceptable. I need to make around 50-100 at a time and they
need to be identical (or at least very close to identical) in shape.

I have done a Google usenet search and there are many suggestions of ways
that 'work' but unfortunately I don't understand the equipment they are
talking about (piloted flush cutting straight bit / carbide tipped combo
blades and so on) Suggestions have been made for band saws, jig saws and
circular saws but I am not sure how or if any of these could be used for low
level 'mass' production. I understand that there may be problems with
friction heating of the mirrors and fumes.

Any advice or practical tips in something close to laymans terms if
possible, on what equipment I need to buy (feel free to mention product
names) and how it should be used to cut / finish the mirrors will be very
gratefully received.

Many thanks and kind regards

John

Never used or seen plastic mirror but I can imagine what it must be like. The
flush cutter would be like this
http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/libr...es/PAGE017.PDF
You would attach a rough cut oversize piece of mirror to an exact size pattern
and then run a router around the pattern.the bearing (pilot) follows the pattern
and the cutter copies the shape.
Basic router technique but over and above the normal processes you would need to
make sure your method of securing the pattern to the mirror did not damage the
surfaces.
Cutters with the bearing at the shaft end of the cutter rather than the end,
allow the router base to bear on the pattern instead of the workpiece. These
would be better for your application.

Good Luck

Bob