rjs wrote in message . ..
On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 05:13:06 GMT, "ATP"
wrote:

I have a problem with the old chuck on the tailstock, do you recommend using
all MT2 shanked drills and dispensing with the use of a chuck altogether? I
was considering installing a used 14N or larger ball bearing Jacobs chuck.

I will insert my 2 cents worth at this point. A major concern using
either a tailstock chuck or morse taper drills is the taper slipping.
Drilling larger diameters in steel requires a lot of torque. Most
tailstocks are not keyed and so the taper can slip. You need to
axially lock the drill or the drill chuck when doing this (some sort
of clamp/bar locked to the drill/chuck and supported by the tool
post/topslide.) That having been said I support those who recommend
step drilling as far as you can then going to the biggest/most rigid
boring bar you can fit. Set the boring bar no further extended than
necessary.
Regards
Bob

If the shank is clean and the mating hole has no marks or ridges in
it, Morse tapers will hold even drilling in low backgear in a lathe.
I've gone to 3/4" in a SB model A 9". Biggest Morse taper drill I own,
boring bar is used over that size. Wasn't fast but it worked. Now on
that tailstock, I think there's a couple of pins for the end of the
shank to work against. I wouldn't try drilling a pilot hole in the
drill press, it'll wander and you'll have a hell of a time when you
finally get the piece into the lathe. One of the old-timey dodges is
to chalk three or four marks lengthwise on the taper shank, it won't
twist in the socket after that assuming everything is is good
condition.

Stan