Frank Boettcher said:

On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 10:19:23 -0500, Greg wrote:

large EM field that causes the cabinet to shudder, makes for a less
than eloquent start-up voice. This was a surprise. There doesn't
seem to be a gib or other adjustment method to eliminate/reduce this
excessive movement, but I haven't got the 'Delta Maintenance" book or
a printed parts view to confirm this. I saw nothing in the PDF.
Where do I get one, Frank?

I'm not sure there is one. I certainly don't have one. Maybe Tech
Service but you probably have to be an established authorized service
station to get one.

I guess I'm used to automotive and electronic manuals, where there is
a spec for almost everything. It's not a complicated machine, but
knowing the design limits would be interesting, and something to aim
for in blueprinting. Experience is a usable substitute, however.

I think you are talking about the fit of the trunions to the trunion
brackets? if so, there is no adjustment. no gibs. I don't remember
what the design clearance is but I have one open (top off) now and I
can get a .002" feeler gage on one side only between the two, and I
have nothing small enough to get between the top (trunion) and the
bottom (bracket). Add the backlash from the two worm gears and their
respective rack segments, which should be minimal and the motor and
arbor bracket(s) shaft to bore(s) clearance which should be minimal
and that is all you have to allow movement.

I haven't precisely measured the clearances, and it could be any or a
combination of the above. Due to the distance of the motor from the
offending components, whatever motion IS there is accentuated.

You talked about tearing the saw completely down, if you do make sure
that you clamp the assembly tightly, silmultaneously on both sides
before you torque the trunion bracket bolts down.

I never tighten anything down on cast-iron without an alternating,
graduated sequence - seen to many failures from guys running down a
bolt with an air tool. With a steel floating sleeve cylinder in a
cast-iron block with an aluminum head - you have to _very_careful with
your torque sequences. ;-)
I'm just paranoid that way....

Don't know if I'll go ALL the way down, just far enough to make it
tight. Got any torque specs on the fasteners?

The start up thump (noise) is annoying (but not disfunctional) and
seems to be universal with these lightened, high starting torque
motors. experimentation with capacitors can improve but will degrade
the run power. electronic soft start circuit is possible but judged
too expensive for a standard saw. Maybe a good after market accessory
business to get into,Greg.

Yeah, didn't figure it was harming anything, but it does take away
from the stable aura of the thing.

Thought very briefly about it, and it may be possible to modify or add
a few components to the existing switch to allow for a softer
start-up. All you need is to get a few revs going before full
power-on. But this would most likely blow UL/CSA all to h#$l. ;-)

The cost of getting either mods, or accessory boxes approved for
commercial sales would be fairly expensive.

I watched an ultra slow mo movie of the inside of the cabinet on
startup. It amazed at what can deflect on startup and with a nice
resonant cabinet to amplify. And doesn't happen every time. I'm told
the randomness has to do with the phase angle(?) created by the
stopping orientation between the rotor and the field. EE's jump in at
any time for correction or elaboration.

Cool. Like to see that. Those light rotor motors start-up so
quickly, it puts a fair shock on other connected components.
Kinda like dropping the clutch at five grand. g
A cheap(?) fix would have been to install a clutch mech, but then
you've got another part to maintain/wear out.
Electronics is another way to go - probably even cheaper.

But the biggest problem of all, and the one I am really distraught
over, is that none of my jigs will fit this saw. (Yes, I realized
this would be necessary, but the monumental nature of this task was
ignored by me until I piled them all up in one place... Arrgghh.)
Splined miter jigs, box jigs, panel jigs, crosscut jigs.... :-o


???, missed what you had before. what is problem, miter slot size
difference or spacing difference?

It's a Delta. I'm too embarrassed to mention the model, but if I told
you that is has a ~8" arbor shaft, riding in dual ball-bearings, and
is gilmer belt driven, I think you could figure it out.

I tweaked the mech and the fence to get more accuracy, but wrapping
the arbor to hold dado's was a real PITA. Built a 4" dust collector
and at one point, had a ducted shroud around the blade - but I got
tired of fishing that darned arbor nut out of it...

Delta's replacement jackshaft motors were so sorry, I rebuilt the old
motor twice. Appeared to me that the darned armatures cores weren't
impregnated well enough to quell high RPM vibration of the windings
and abrasion of the insulation resulted in failure. Delta provided
one armature and I rewound the other. But overall, it's been a pretty
good saw compared to others in it's price range. Due to the length of
the arbor shaft, and the large std bearings, it ran very true.
But that noise... ;-)

Anyway, the slot spacing is different, and the fence a different
height/width. I have door panel and miter spline jigs that ride the
fence, and a variety of miter slot jigs for box joint cutting and
such. And of course, I put slides on both slots, not that it would
matter because the distance from the blade is different on both.

Took a lot of time making them 'perfect'. and I hate to lose them.
So, it's back to ground zero.. ugghh...

Thanks, Frank,

Greg G.