On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 10:19:23 -0500, Greg wrote:
OK - Even smaller chunks. Absolutely no humor or 'editorializing'.
You guys could suck the fun from a clandestine affaire de coeur.
Part Two exited with the final assembly of the extension tables.
This is the end result of working with the tables and extension for 2
days to get them evened out. There are two pictures because one
didn't cover it all, I'm too lazy to take any more. The diagonal
arrows point out the diagonal clearances on the main table. Don't
take these too seriously, as the hump around the throat aggravates the
diagonal measurements beyond what they probably are in reality.
http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/UniSaw21.jpg
http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/UniSaw22.jpg
Not nearly as flat as the first table, but at this point, I'm weary of
messing with and returning inconsistent product. I may stone it out
and polish it myself, I may decide to swap it out and polish whatever
I get THIS time - who knows. Since part of the reason for upgrading
the saw was to attain additional accuracy for lutherie and segmented
vessels, as well as furniture, I'll just have to wait and see how this
works out.
Almost no shimming was needed to get the two extension tables
coplanear with the saw top. A wispy strip of .002" teflon was all
that was needed. I have never seen a set 'that' close out of the box.
The other reason for upgrading was noise. This saw has a tremendous
advantage over my old saw. While running, a pleasant hum and the
particular whine of the selected blade is all you hear. Except, that
is, when starting the saw with a blade mounted - especially a dado.
A disconcerting concert of vibrations accompanies power-on. A
preliminary examination of it's source reveals that there is
significant play in the trunnions radiused channels which the arbor
assembly/cross support rotates in. You can actually grab the motor
and deflect the assembly 3/8" or so. This motion, combined with a
large EM field that causes the cabinet to shudder, makes for a less
than eloquent start-up voice. This was a surprise. There doesn't
seem to be a gib or other adjustment method to eliminate/reduce this
excessive movement, but I haven't got the 'Delta Maintenance" book or
a printed parts view to confirm this. I saw nothing in the PDF.
Where do I get one, Frank?
I'm not sure there is one. I certainly don't have one. Maybe Tech
Service but you probably have to be an established authorized service
station to get one.
I think you are talking about the fit of the trunions to the trunion
brackets? if so, there is no adjustment. no gibs. I don't remember
what the design clearance is but I have one open (top off) now and I
can get a .002" feeler gage on one side only between the two, and I
have nothing small enough to get between the top (trunion) and the
bottom (bracket). Add the backlash from the two worm gears and their
respective rack segments, which should be minimal and the motor and
arbor bracket(s) shaft to bore(s) clearance which should be minimal
and that is all you have to allow movement.
You talked about tearing the saw completely down, if you do make sure
that you clamp the assembly tightly, silmultaneously on both sides
before you torque the trunion bracket bolts down.
The start up thump (noise) is annoying (but not disfunctional) and
seems to be universal with these lightened, high starting torque
motors. experimentation with capacitors can improve but will degrade
the run power. electronic soft start circuit is possible but judged
too expensive for a standard saw. Maybe a good after market accessory
business to get into,Greg.
I watched an ultra slow mo movie of the inside of the cabinet on
startup. It amazed at what can deflect on startup and with a nice
resonant cabinet to amplify. And doesn't happen every time. I'm told
the randomness has to do with the phase angle(?) created by the
stopping orientation between the rotor and the field. EE's jump in at
any time for correction or elaboration.
The accessories were all in new packaging. They look new as well.
This is the fence. The acquisition of Beisemeyer by Delta doesn't
seem to have improved the breed. This photo is a collage of the
points detailed below.
http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/UniSaw24.jpg
The pre-applied measuring tape had a bubble in it - which affected,
slightly, accuracy past the bubble. I carefully peeled the tape off
and re-applied it to eliminate this. (Center).
Some kind of problem befell the tape after assembly, and the end was
broken off. Others I have seen did not exhibit this phenomenon, and
it appears that this was done while handling or packing the product
into the box. Adhesive remains where the missing part of the tape
used to be. It was not in the box, and looks as though someone tried
to trim the end (and poorly I might add.) (Top Right)
The plastic T-molding that wraps the plywood fence face, more so on
the left side (the one you actually USE), is not centered. It leaves
exposed plywood on one side, and hangs over the fence face on the
other. (Both Bottom)
The clear plastic (acrylic?) hairline has a distortion around the line
itself. I 'think' it may have been intended to be a magnifier, but it
looks more like the plastic distorted when scribing the line, or in
the mold itself. It's rather odd.
The rails were painted and straight, but the slides on the rear end of
the fence only leave .015" clearance between the fence face bottom
edge and the table - slightly more on the right face. I had to modify
the table's mounting holes slightly in order to get the fence to slide
across the surface without slamming into the joints in the top.
This is a picture of the infamous binding arbor wrench. You can see
the angle at which the business end of the wrench is at in relation to
the arbor. It is bound on the table top. The blade height is 2 1/4".
The cure is to lessen the severity of the bend in the shank.
No comments on this are desired at this point. There it is.
http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/UniSaw23.jpg
And finally, as mentioned in the previous post, the chipped blade and
pitted table wing that was caused by the installer leaving the blade
raised too far before packing for shipment. It was a nice blade...
http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/UniSaw25.jpg
But the biggest problem of all, and the one I am really distraught
over, is that none of my jigs will fit this saw. (Yes, I realized
this would be necessary, but the monumental nature of this task was
ignored by me until I piled them all up in one place... Arrgghh.)
Splined miter jigs, box jigs, panel jigs, crosscut jigs.... :-o
???, missed what you had before. what is problem, miter slot size
difference or spacing difference?
That's it for today.
Greg G.