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joe2 joe2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
Hi All:

Details:
- I am a relatively new woodworker.
- I have ~ $700.00 CND (lets say $500 to $600 US) to spend on a router
AND a router table (including taxes, shipping).
- I dont want to cheap out, and at the same time im not a professional
woodworker. My saved here could be put towards other neccessities
(router bits, air compressor, beer)
- My expected usage for it is medium scale projects - ie my wife wants
me to make a built in window seat for our bedroom. My ultimate
woodworking goal (get back to me in 10 years) is to build a roll top
cabinet.

Ive done a fair bit of research thus far; Here is what I've come up
with:

Router:
1) Dewalt DW625
Pro: Lots of power, lots of reccomendations, plunge router. DeWalt
quality - have several other tools and am _very_ impressed.
Con: Heavy, not easy to use without table. Plunge is redundant if its
mounted on table 90% of the time.
2) PC 7539 (Pro/Con - Same as above more or less), except PC is the
industry standard so all accessories will fit it (im a sucker for cool
accessories).

Table
1) BenchDog ProTop Contractor:
http://www.benchdog.com/protopcontractor.htm
Pro: Dosent take alot of space, Router is enclosed reducing noise and
helping DC
Con: I dont get to make my own, laminate top (does this matter)
2) Possibly the Vertias/Lee Valley router table,
Pro: Excellent quality, steel top
Con: Price is a bit beyond my budget (Canadian price is pushing 500
bucks!), and I think its overkill for essentially casual usage..

(based off of excellent article at
http://www.woodnet.net/plansnow/review-routertable.pdf )

So, questions for all of you

1) Do you have any reccomendations?
1.5) Will the Dewalt plunge work fine with a router table? Ive read
mixed opinions about this.
2) Is the PC or some other router drastically better than the dewalt
given my needs?
3) Can you reccomend another good table that meets my needs (looks
nice, router is enclosed, has strong reliable fench, isnt cheap
quality). (Note: While I would love to build my own table, I dont
really have the time to do that, especially give the material costs
would probably equal the cost of a manufactered one)
4) My reasonsing is the same as when I bought my car: get as much HP as
I can afford. Rationale being I can still use it for freehand routing,
albeit with some discomfort due to weight, as opposed to getting a
lower powered router that will just not be able to handle large scale
routing (shoudl I decide to do that).
5) This might be a stupid question. I assume changing the height of the
bit means fiddling with the router inside/underneath the table. I
suspect this will be a pain/tricky. Ive read you can adjust the bit
depth from above the table.
a) Is this a feature to look for on the _router_ or the _table_?
b) How important do you view this feature.
6) Any thing else you can reccomend!!!!

Thanks!!!

Note: I've searched back through quite a few posts for what I'm asking.
I've also completely read www.patwarner.com (*excellent* site, though
my eyes hurt from staring at screen all dat ). Im asking the above
questions as its tough to find specific details that take into account
personal budget considerations, needs, etc.


I’ve been researching routers, too, reading lots of reviews, talking to experienced people. I initially liked the Triton router but read it will not accept any aftermarket router guides, you must use the one that comes with it, and a couple reviews have pointed out minor (fixable) problems with the guide. The competing PC is supposed to be a little more beefy with a bearing closer to the work surface making for a more rigid bit mount and less stress on the motor.

Folks with mega router experience told me to pass on the big 3 or 3-1/2 hp routers, instead get a 2 or 2-1/2 hp, unless you will be working with your router frequently, i.e. several times a week. They recommended I take a look at the PC 7518 kit and the Bosch 1617EVS.

The same folks said to pass on a plunge router. I want a router that will work for table mounted and handheld. They said any router will sink the bit in the wood by rocking it, a plunge isn’t necessary. Since I have no router experience perhaps some folks here can share some insight/experience on this point…is a plunge necessary?