I had a similar problem. I decided to repipe the house (abandon the slab and
run the pipes through the walls and in the attic) because several houses in
a row had the same problem and I felt fixing the leak in the slab was only
going to be a temporary fix and I was going to install new flooring anyway.
I own a 2-story house, and it took 24 holes in the walls, the smallest about
18" x 18" and the largest about 5' X 18".
Ron






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The adjuster was out. He noted that the copper that is visible (from
the water heater) is the lowest grade (thinnest wall) (M?) rather than
the appropriate next one up (L?). he also said that anything in the
ground has to be K. I'm betting it's all the cheap stuff. Anyway, to my
surprise he said I can go ahead and turn on the hot water. I said
thanks, but the water and electric bill will skyrocket. He doubts the
electric would be that much higher (I disagree), but he also said that
once the water passes the meter, it is considered personal property,
and so is covered for loss! All I need to do is show the difference in
usage. I'm still going to keep it shut off, but at least I know we can
turn it on when we need to, without causing additional harm. I asked
him where the water is going, and he feels it's mostly going into the
sand and soil under the slab, and some into the concrete, but not to
worry. Plumber is coming out Monday to determine what needs to be done.
I already know that we will need to open the wall under the sink, see
where the pipes go. Peel off the tile, then start breaking concrete.
Hopefully, the leak will be easy to find (and fix), NOT due to
corrosion (but I'm suspecting it is) and will be where I suspect it to
be. I like the idea of a secondary line inside, but I think it's only
1/4" pipe as it is- I would hate to lose any pressure.

Unfortunately, the adjuster agreed that there isn't really another
viable route, so I think a PEX line is out of the question.