"mike hide" wrote in message
...

"Wyatt" wrote in message
ups.com...
I jointed one side of the boards flat and one edge square. After
resawing, both pieces bowed much more than I expected. These were then
jointed and planed flat and then glued together to get the 11" wide
panles. Due to the warping, some pairs of boards turned out thinner
than others once they were machined flat again.

Is your material dried to the correct moisture content ? if so then
perhaps you should try taking a very light cut when resurfacing and
leaving the boards to stabililze to a couple of days before taking another
light cut. In addition make sure the boards are stored at all times so
that air can get to both side [ie on end leaning against a wall on one
corner] In addition keep the boards out of the sun.


What Mike means to say is that your pieces should have nearly equal moisture
both inside and out, because inside is going to become out when you resaw.
There is no "proper" moisture content to ensure non-warp.

It's a lot easier for folks with a penchant for procrastination to get good
resaws, because we've had the wood stickered and waiting through a couple
weeks of nagging by the time we take it to the bandsaw, but even this is no
guarantee of success. Sure we avoid the problems of bringing the wood from
the dealer direct into our environment, but we may also be involved in a
change of average relative humidity ourselves. It's raining a lot here
right now, so if I were to resaw, the dryer wood in center would pick up
moisture. In another month or so I'll be heating constantly, and the
outside will be dryer than the in.

Steady conditions and full exposure of the surfaces is a good idea. I
believe the FPL says 1% MC per week adjustment on a 4/4 board. Three weeks
is 3%, which should make the difference three or less, in my experience.
Tolerable.

Or make your own constant conditions with humidity control. Once your
panels are contained in their frames, they can't go far, and you wouldn't
notice the attempt.