Another thing which I don't think has come up in this thread...

If your lathe has an effective spindle lock, then you can start the
tightening process with one tommy bar, not two.

Someone mentioned using the tailstock to hold the work against the chuck
while you tighten the jaws. That is a good practice even with the more
expensive chucks -- it helps to assure that the shoulder of the tenon is
pressing against the face of the jaws -- critical for proper use of any
chuck.

That said, I had an original Nova chuck. I've sold it and now use a
Stronghold and a Talon. I wouldn't go back. I believe, though, that
Raffin uses tommy bar chucks and makes a convincing argument as to why
he doesn't like the key operated ones. He cranks out a lot of work and
thinks the tommy bar is faster.

Bill



Michael Latcha wrote:
For what it's worth, all of the chucks (3 so far) I've had in 14 years of
turning wood have been the original Novas, and would buy them again even
with the additional choices now available. In limited production runs (up
to about 300 items at once... chessmen, Christmas tree ornaments, etc),
bowls (up to 15" in diameter), vessels, etc., etc., etc, I have seldom
needed anything but a Nova (and the Glaser screw chuck for roughing wet
bowls) and have never needed "3 hands" to tighten a chuck.

I truly don't understand the problems that others profess to have with the
Nova. One hand on the work, the other on tommy bar until the jaws grip the
wood, then both hands on tommy bars to tighten. Takes longer to say or to
type than to do it. Simple, fast and strong. What else do you need?

I think a lot of people who say that it's a bad choice have never tried it.
And the opinion of a salesman pushing you to a much more expensive chuck
needs to be taken with a whole sack of salt.

Only you can decide for yourself. Go back to Woodcraft and ask if you can
mount a piece of work on one of their demo lathes with the original Nova and
with the SuperNova. Unless you've used one, you'll have to rely on the
opinions of others. You are spending the money, and it's not a trivial
amount of money. Wouldn't you test drive a car before buying it?

Michael Latcha - at home in Redford, MI


"John DeBoo" wrote in message
...

Went into my local Woodcraft today to buy a Nova Midi chuck for my Jet
Midi 1014 and the salesperson convinced(?) me this was not the one for me
by telling me how it would be a bad choice for me needs and that I needed
a 3rd hand to be able to mount stuff in it. I really needed the Super
Nova - which of course costs about what I paid or more for my lathe new i
year ago @ Woodcraft. I just can't rationalize doing that.

I'm a:
- Hobbiest, not a pro and doing this for fun off and on.
- Making small items, maybe a few goblets and simple bowls 10" dia max.
- No exotic woods or cuts, just general fun stuff.
- Might even make a set of chessmen one day, cedar, oak, pine, whatever.
- I have no add-ons for the lathe like *extra* faceplates etc, just what
it came with originally. Belay that, I do have an MT2 1/2" drill chuck.

Looking for a viable alternative to the Nova chuck and/or a SAFE and
proven means of doing that sort of work with something else that is cost
effective. Snagged 2 books from the library to day to assist. Turning
Wood by Raffan and Woodturning by Rowley. But I thought I'd ask the
experts here also and see what shakes out. Would appreciate, pointers,
tips, links and opinions.

Thanks,
John D.