Dick Pewthers wrote in :

I have built a 45" x 84" dining table out of random length mesquite.
Mesquite has cracks, crevices, knotholes, pits, splits and just about
every other cosmetic flaw. I need to fill them with something. I
tried two-part epoxy but it just ran right through the cracks in the
wood. I think I need some sort of putty that I can tint. I've heard
of FAMOWOOD--both solvent-based and water-based. Does anyone know if
FAMOWOOD can be tinted to match Mesquite, will fill the holes, sand
smooth, and then look OK after I apply the Watco and the poly to the
entire table?

Your help is desperately needed!

Dick Pewthers
Lake Travis, TX



Dick,
I build a lot of furniture almost exclusively from mesquite. The best way
to fill cracks is to use System 3 Epoxy (or equivelant). I buy it by the
gallon and use the pumps available for the bottles. Here in Llano, wich is
in Central Texas, I have found that the medium hardener seems to work the
best for me in the summer. Fast hardener would be a better choice in the
winter if your shop is unheated.
I sand the bottom face of the board smooth and then use clear packing
tape to seal the cracks. (Be sure they are sealed well!) After they are all
sealed I turn to board over and space it up off of my table with some 1/4"
square sticks, just in case I get a leak in my tape job my work piece won't
stick to the work table. Mix the epoxy and pour it into the cracks. It has
the consistency of Maple syrup & will run & run into the cracks.
I use a propane torch to pop the air bubbles that form in the epoxy as
the cracks fill. (Just wave the flame over the bubbles. DO NOT
hold it on the same spot anywhere!) Generally it takes about an hour for me
to get all but the largest cracks completely filled. I always pour a little
extra in order to try to make sure that there will be enough to run into
the crack if any more air is displaced from the crack after I have left it
to sit. This will cure at a level above the surface of the board.
I generally do this at the very end of the day, so it can sit overnight
and cure. The next day I sand the epoxy flush with 80 grit paper then work
up throught the grits to 150, 220, & sometimes 320 and 400. After that I
use a few coats of a mixture of BLO/Tung Oil/Turpentine for initial finish.
Then I shoot it with clear gloss lacquer with a Satin overcoat. A good
waterproof finish for a table is Arm-R-Seal by General Finishes again gloss
for the first coats then satin for the over coat (Help mantina clarity of
wood). It is an oil poly mix and I sometimes use it after the BLO/LO/Turps
coats are done.
The only time I use colorant is when I am filling large cracks or holes.
System Three makes this for their epoxy on a number of different colors.
I mix my epoxy in 2 oz. dixie cups and stir with popcicle sticks and then
just thow them away when done. The little plastic mixing cups and sticks
cost too much.
Good luck with your table.

--
Michael Burton
Thunderbird Hardwoods
Llano, TX

mhburton at tbird-hardwoods dot com