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Hotpoint Dishwasher Flooding



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 17th 09, 11:05 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
Tom
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Posts: 12
Default Hotpoint Dishwasher Flooding

Does anybody have any DIY experience with a Hotpoint FD W60 dishwasher
please?

My dishwasher leaked out the front door after not shutting off on the
fill cycle. However after mopping up the flood further testing seems
to indicate fault has corrected itself and the water now shuts off at
the correct level. Taking the thing apart I can only see what appears
to be a pressure sensor switch high on the left inside of the unit (to
which the inlet is initially piped up through before feeding the
pump). I assume it is this switch that failed to engage for some
reason but what worries me is the lack of secondary back up shut off.
There is no under unit drip tray with additional float valve and the
castle like overflow near the lower wash arm in this model is merely a
blanking plate (rather than an additional overflow into drip tray as
in other models).

Can't believe there is only the one flood safety shut off but my
experience seems to points to this for this model. Can anybody help
please?
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  #2  
Old February 17th 09, 09:52 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 1,843
Default Hotpoint Dishwasher Flooding

On Feb 18, 12:05 am, Tom wrote:

Can't believe there is only the one flood safety shut off but my
experience seems to points to this for this model. Can anybody help
please?


My experience with a different brand is that food particles can get
near the water level switch and cause a malfunction. And in old
washers they just flood all over the electrics and your kitchen. In
newer washers there is likely to be a water leak detector which shuts
off the washer and shows a warning light and needs to be reset by an
engineer.
Next time I build a kitchen or bathroom I want to put a drain in the
floor!
  #3  
Old February 17th 09, 10:45 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 594
Default Hotpoint Dishwasher Flooding

On Feb 17, 11:05 am, Tom wrote:

There is no under unit drip tray with additional float valve


That sounds strange as the float element for this model is available
he

http://www.espares.co.uk/part/dishwa...nit-float.html

and the
castle like overflow near the lower wash arm in this model is merely a
blanking plate


....but then I guess not given this - the water would never reach the
base.

I was going to suggest perhaps the filling mechanism is on a timer to
limit any overflow condition, but I would've thought the conventional
float valve would be easier (not least given the provision for the
overflow turret). Besides which, if your pressure sensor was dodgy the
timer should've prevented the flood.

Could the pressure sensor be dual-stage e.g. first stop for 'machine
full', second for 'overfilled'? (the number of connections to it will
give this away). A potential single point of failure but perhaps it is
usually quite reliable.

Mathew
  #4  
Old February 18th 09, 10:21 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
Tom
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Posts: 12
Default Hotpoint Dishwasher Flooding

On 17 Feb, 22:45, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Feb 17, 11:05 am, Tom wrote:

There is no under unit drip tray with additional float valve


That sounds strange as the float element for this model is available
he

http://www.espares.co.uk/part/dishwa...83/808/0/0/492...

and the
castle like overflow near the lower wash arm in this model is merely a
blanking plate


...but then I guess not given this - the water would never reach the
base.

I was going to suggest perhaps the filling mechanism is on a timer to
limit any overflow condition, but I would've thought the conventional
float valve would be easier (not least given the provision for the
overflow turret). Besides which, if your pressure sensor was dodgy the
timer should've prevented the flood.

Could the pressure sensor be dual-stage e.g. first stop for 'machine
full', second for 'overfilled'? (the number of connections to it will
give this away). A potential single point of failure but perhaps it is
usually quite reliable.

Mathew


Thanks Mathew.

From what I can gather the model changed around 2004 so I assume mine
is post overflow turret and tray (cost cutting?) where a similar
looking blanking turret has been used instead.

I would go with your theory of the water shut off being on a timer as
it operates with the door open (assume pressure switch needs door
sealed). My flood situation seems to suggest that the timer
temporarily failed but no secondary flood protection kicked in before
the level reached the front door seal.
  #5  
Old February 18th 09, 01:37 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 594
Default Hotpoint Dishwasher Flooding

On 18 Feb, 10:21, Tom wrote:

(assume pressure switch needs door
sealed)


What do you mean by this? The pressure switch is normally connected
via a pipe to the bottom of the sump. As the machine gradually the
fills the weight of the water compresses the air in this pipe and
eventually activates the pressure switch thus cutting the valve. This
action will work whether the door is closed or not.

I was thinking that if perhaps the overfill detection is achieved via
a two-stage pressure sensor then if your pipe were blocked/damaged
then this would prevent the sensor activating.

Mathew
  #6  
Old February 18th 09, 04:13 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
Tom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Hotpoint Dishwasher Flooding

On 18 Feb, 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On 18 Feb, 10:21, Tom wrote:

(assume pressure switch needs door
sealed)


What do you mean by this? The pressure switch is normally connected
via a pipe to the bottom of the sump. As the machine gradually the
fills the weight of the water compresses the air in this pipe and
eventually activates the pressure switch thus cutting the valve. This
action will work whether the door is closed or not.

I was thinking that if perhaps the overfill detection is achieved via
a two-stage pressure sensor then if your pipe were blocked/damaged
then this would prevent the sensor activating.

Mathew


OK, so thatís how the pressure switch works then. So the device on the
upper left inside of the unit that the water is initially piped
through might not be relevant. Not sure what this does then. Not sure
why water is directed up there first. There are wires to this unit so
the cut off could be in there but linked to a pressure switch in the
pump sump area (cant be anywhere else in this model) which could
easily have got blocked with food/gunge.
  #7  
Old February 18th 09, 09:31 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,310
Default Hotpoint Dishwasher Flooding

Tom wrote:
On 18 Feb, 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On 18 Feb, 10:21, Tom wrote:

(assume pressure switch needs door
sealed)


What do you mean by this? The pressure switch is normally connected
via a pipe to the bottom of the sump. As the machine gradually the
fills the weight of the water compresses the air in this pipe and
eventually activates the pressure switch thus cutting the valve. This
action will work whether the door is closed or not.

I was thinking that if perhaps the overfill detection is achieved via
a two-stage pressure sensor then if your pipe were blocked/damaged
then this would prevent the sensor activating.

Mathew


OK, so thatís how the pressure switch works then. So the device on the
upper left inside of the unit that the water is initially piped
through might not be relevant. Not sure what this does then. Not sure
why water is directed up there first. There are wires to this unit so
the cut off could be in there but linked to a pressure switch in the
pump sump area (cant be anywhere else in this model) which could
easily have got blocked with food/gunge.



Normally the pressure switch is activated by rising water. But if the
pressure tube falls off, it will never activate. The fill is
controlled only by 1 or 2 solenoid valves controlled by the electronic
controller. Usually its pressure switch operation that stops the fill.
There are usually no back up devices, any one failure can cause a
flood. Backups cost extra. Apart from pressure tube blockage or leak,
pressure switch failure and electronics failure, grit in the valve can
also cause it to not shut off.

If its flooded once, trust me, it will almost certainly do it again.
Either put it where it wont cause any harm or replace it.


NT
  #8  
Old February 19th 09, 11:39 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
Tom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Hotpoint Dishwasher Flooding

On 18 Feb, 21:31, wrote:
Tom wrote:
On 18 Feb, 13:37, Mathew Newton wrote:
On 18 Feb, 10:21, Tom wrote:


(assume pressure switch needs door
sealed)


What do you mean by this? The pressure switch is normally connected
via a pipe to the bottom of the sump. As the machine gradually the
fills the weight of the water compresses the air in this pipe and
eventually activates the pressure switch thus cutting the valve. This
action will work whether the door is closed or not.


I was thinking that if perhaps the overfill detection is achieved via
a two-stage pressure sensor then if your pipe were blocked/damaged
then this would prevent the sensor activating.


Mathew


OK, so thatís how the pressure switch works then. So the device on the
upper left inside of the unit that the water is initially piped
through might not be relevant. Not sure what this does then. Not sure
why water is directed up there first. There are wires to this unit so
the cut off could be in there but linked to a pressure switch in the
pump sump area (cant be anywhere else in this model) which could
easily have got blocked with food/gunge.


Normally the pressure switch is activated by rising water. But if the
pressure tube falls off, it will never activate. The fill is
controlled only by 1 or 2 solenoid valves controlled by the electronic
controller. Usually its pressure switch operation that stops the fill.
There are usually no back up devices, any one failure can cause a
flood. Backups cost extra. Apart from pressure tube blockage or leak,
pressure switch failure and electronics failure, grit in the valve can
also cause it to not shut off.

If its flooded once, trust me, it will almost certainly do it again.
Either put it where it wont cause any harm or replace it.

NT- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Wise words and Im inclined to agree. Floating chipboard topped with
laminate floor means I just cant risk a major flood. Solution:
dishwasher written off, convert space into cupboard and put in place
timetable for moving washing machine into garage. Downside is obvious
inconvenience and wife moaning however should avoid inevitable
disaster when one or other appliance goes bang.

Chipboard and laminate in kitchens (and bathrooms for that matter) Ė
complete madness. Ive got this vague long term plan of ripping the lot
out, building up the slab (incorporating warm up and drainage in
appropriate areas) and then tiling over the lotÖ
 




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