[Yvonne]

Vaillant EcoMAX Pro that was installed late 2004 has developed a
steady drip.

At first I thought it might be a leak from the outer sleeve of the
flue that was getting into the boiler housing but found no evidence of
that.

The drips comes from the bottom of the main casing - just behind where
the control panel hinges are located.

Whilst the boiler was turned off, I took the inner casing panel off
to have a look but couldn't see the source of the leak.

My first question is .... is it OK to run the boiler with the inner
casing panel removed?

Secondly, what would the most likely source be and what would the
likely cost implications be?

Thanks for assistance

[Cod Roe]

Yvonne wrote:

My first question is .... is it OK to run the boiler with the inner
casing panel removed?

Well reasonably ok, I know of no reason why it would affect the boilers
operation, but be aware of the possibility of little fingers being stuck
in where they shouldn't.

Secondly, what would the most likely source be and what would the
likely cost implications be?

I'm no expert, but I had a very similar problem with my Baxi Eco80 when
I brought this house. It was the diverter valve assembly that was
leaking, a small pin is pushed out by a diaphragm to activate a
micro-switch when demand for hot water occurs (i.e. you open a tap).
The leak was round the pin, which I fixed with an appropriately sized
o-ring and some silicon grease. I'm not saying you have the same thing,
but be aware it might only leak when a hot tap is on, mine did. So try
observing it running for a while, also worth trying with the central
heating on. If you do spot a leak, the manual should have several
diagrams identifying the various parts for you.

[geoff]

In message , Cod Roe
writes
Yvonne wrote:

My first question is .... is it OK to run the boiler with the inner
casing panel removed?

Well reasonably ok, I know of no reason why it would affect the boilers
operation, but be aware of the possibility of little fingers being
stuck in where they shouldn't.

Well, for a start, it depends on whether it is a positively or
negatively pressurised boiler (whether the fan blows or sucks)

Ecomax is IIRC neg so should be OK in that regard




Secondly, what would the most likely source be and what would the
likely cost implications be?

So try observing it running for a while, also worth trying with the
central heating on.

Yeah, that's about all you can do

Leaks can occur wherever there's a joint, base of the heat exchanger is
a fave place, but you have to look - you're there,nobody else is

Cost depends on what it is and whether you just need to tighten a joint
up something else trivial



--
geoff

[Ed Sirett]

On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 20:21:32 +0000, Cod Roe wrote:

Yvonne wrote:

My first question is .... is it OK to run the boiler with the inner
casing panel removed?

Well reasonably ok, I know of no reason why it would affect the boilers
operation, but be aware of the possibility of little fingers being stuck
in where they shouldn't.

OK. In reality apart from being a little noisy, the slightly exposed mains
voltage connectors and the possibility of getting dirt into the air intake
not a lot. By the book, at law, and with any sort of responsibility the
answer to this question is definitely no. Competent testing and
diagnostics might require the operation of the boiler with the cover
removed, briefly and when you are in attendance.

You need to find the source of the leak. What it will take to put right
will depend on what is leaking. It could be pence for an O-ring up to
serious money for the heat exchanger (which happily it does not appear
to be).



Secondly, what would the most likely source be and what would the
likely cost implications be?

I'm no expert, but I had a very similar problem with my Baxi Eco80 when
I brought this house. It was the diverter valve assembly that was
leaking, a small pin is pushed out by a diaphragm to activate a
micro-switch when demand for hot water occurs (i.e. you open a tap).
The leak was round the pin, which I fixed with an appropriately sized
o-ring and some silicon grease. I'm not saying you have the same thing,
but be aware it might only leak when a hot tap is on, mine did. So try
observing it running for a while, also worth trying with the central
heating on. If you do spot a leak, the manual should have several
diagrams identifying the various parts for you.

Fortunately the Eco tec is nothing like a Baxi Eco80 they are not in the
same league.



--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html

[Yvonne]

Thanks for the help guys.

Much appreciated.

[Cod Roe]

geoff wrote:

Well, for a start, it depends on whether it is a positively or
negatively pressurised boiler (whether the fan blows or sucks)

Ecomax is IIRC neg so should be OK in that regard

The instruction manual says the boiler is room sealed, so how is the
presence of the cover relevant to this?

[geoff]

In message , Cod Roe
writes
geoff wrote:

Well, for a start, it depends on whether it is a positively or
negatively pressurised boiler (whether the fan blows or sucks)
Ecomax is IIRC neg so should be OK in that regard

The instruction manual says the boiler is room sealed, so how is the
presence of the cover relevant to this?

It isn't then, is it ?

--
geoff

[Ed Sirett]

On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 23:13:31 +0000, geoff wrote:

In message , Cod Roe
writes
Yvonne wrote:

My first question is .... is it OK to run the boiler with the inner
casing panel removed?

Well reasonably ok, I know of no reason why it would affect the boilers
operation, but be aware of the possibility of little fingers being
stuck in where they shouldn't.

Well, for a start, it depends on whether it is a positively or
negatively pressurised boiler (whether the fan blows or sucks)

Ecomax is IIRC neg so should be OK in that regard


Just about every (fanned flue) boiler model operates at negative
pressure. However the Pott. Netaheat and Pott. Profile are notable
exceptions. These models won't start with the casing removed.





--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html

[geoff]

In message , Ed Sirett
writes
On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 23:13:31 +0000, geoff wrote:

In message , Cod Roe
writes
Yvonne wrote:

My first question is .... is it OK to run the boiler with the inner
casing panel removed?

Well reasonably ok, I know of no reason why it would affect the boilers
operation, but be aware of the possibility of little fingers being
stuck in where they shouldn't.

Well, for a start, it depends on whether it is a positively or
negatively pressurised boiler (whether the fan blows or sucks)

Ecomax is IIRC neg so should be OK in that regard


Just about every (fanned flue) boiler model operates at negative
pressure. However the Pott. Netaheat and Pott. Profile are notable
exceptions. These models won't start with the casing removed.

YEah - had someone with a Nht with that problem (well, a CO meter which
went spare ..) the other day, which is what made me think of it

Add the thorn olympic (pre mod) to the list


--
geoff

[Yvonne]

Cost depends on what it is and whether you just need to tighten a joint
up something else trivial

--
geoff

OK, I took the inner casing panel off and it runs OK with no problem.

The drips were coming off the bottom of the heat exchanger ie about 2
inches below the igniter electrode -suggesting that a gasket might be
on the way out. Or worse still maybe the heat exchanger/burner
interface is warped??

What is odd is that the flow varies from nothing up to a steady two
drips per second. I havn't seen a pattern yet which would identify the
parameters which affect the frequency of the drips.

The only hint so far is that the drips are rare immediately after the
boiler has started up but increase when it has been running for a
couple of hours. Might this be after most of the TRV's have closed
when they are up to temperature. Here I would advise that there is a
bypass valve installed so the TRV issue might be spurious.

If it is a simple gasket issue, where do I get a gasket from? I'm in
London.

[geoff]

In message
,
Yvonne writes

Cost depends on what it is and whether you just need to tighten a joint
up something else trivial

--
geoff

OK, I took the inner casing panel off and it runs OK with no problem.

The drips were coming off the bottom of the heat exchanger ie about 2
inches below the igniter electrode -suggesting that a gasket might be
on the way out. Or worse still maybe the heat exchanger/burner
interface is warped??

What is odd is that the flow varies from nothing up to a steady two
drips per second. I havn't seen a pattern yet which would identify the
parameters which affect the frequency of the drips.

The only hint so far is that the drips are rare immediately after the
boiler has started up but increase when it has been running for a
couple of hours. Might this be after most of the TRV's have closed
when they are up to temperature. Here I would advise that there is a
bypass valve installed so the TRV issue might be spurious.

If it is a simple gasket issue, where do I get a gasket from? I'm in
London.

I'd just try tightening up the nut first


--
geoff

[Ed Sirett]

On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 09:39:44 -0800, Yvonne wrote:

Cost depends on what it is and whether you just need to tighten a joint
up something else trivial

--
geoff

OK, I took the inner casing panel off and it runs OK with no problem.

The drips were coming off the bottom of the heat exchanger ie about 2
inches below the igniter electrode -suggesting that a gasket might be
on the way out. Or worse still maybe the heat exchanger/burner
interface is warped??

What is odd is that the flow varies from nothing up to a steady two
drips per second. I havn't seen a pattern yet which would identify the
parameters which affect the frequency of the drips.

The only hint so far is that the drips are rare immediately after the
boiler has started up but increase when it has been running for a
couple of hours. Might this be after most of the TRV's have closed
when they are up to temperature. Here I would advise that there is a
bypass valve installed so the TRV issue might be spurious.

If it is a simple gasket issue, where do I get a gasket from? I'm in
London.

Maybe you have one of the units that is up for a new seal on a safety
recall! Phone Vaillant (number on the back of the manual).

If the primary system pressure is hold up and it's not leaking when not in
use then the drips are likely condensate (have they already discoloured
anything they have fallen on?).



--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html