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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Radiators and CH system...
The system now appears to be working OK, but I have some questions:
First, have I omitted anything or is the system good to go? There was a certain amount (but not much) of black sludge, and the Collins book suggests using an anti-corrosion aid in the water - how can I get that into a pressurised system? Is it necessary? It is absolutely essential to install corrosion inhibitor. On a pressurised system, there are a number of solutions to getting the stuff into the system. It is possible to get it concentrated into a syringe that you insert into the bleed valve on a suitable radiator. My preferred technique is to add an additive point when the system is drained down. This consists of a T piece with a short length of pipe sticking vertically upwards terminated by an isolation valve and another short length of pipe. You can then stick a funnel in and pour what you like before refilling. Just remember to turn the valve off before starting the filling loop up! Using this method you can use standard inhibitor which is much cheaper than proprietary injection systems. Further, I guess this will be at (or level with) the lowest point in the system. I can't find it anywhere on the lower floor, though - any suggestions as to where I could find it? There might not be one. Install one yourself if you get the chance. Christian. |
#2
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Radiators and CH system...
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#3
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Radiators and CH system...
Adam wrote:
Hi All, Had to take a radiator off to strip wall paper and paint behind it, so I tackled that over the weekend. I made the mistake of not checking uk.d-i-y before I started as there was an entry in our Collins DIY book (thanks to whoever made the recommendation on the FAQ site, by the way) on how to remove radiators, so I thought we'd be OK (and we do not yet have a working computer at home, so no access to usenet at weekends). Everything looked good until I realised that they had no information on how to remove radiators with thermostats on, and that they did not cover pressurised systems. Oh well, I broke out the boiler manual and had a good read. It all seemed pretty simple, so I closed the lockshield (?) valve, set the thermostat to 0 and started undoing. Several bucketfuls of water later I appeared to have drained the entire system, which was now showing zero pressure. We removed the radiator, worked behind it and refitted it. Then I reconnected the radiator, reopened the lockshield valve (by the same number of turns it had taken to close it), went up to the boiler and opened the valve that appeared to supply mains water to the system (via a flexible hose). Got the pressure back up and then went round venting all the radiators. I expected to find them all still full (all the vent valves had been closed) but all bar one on the upper floor and one on the lower floor were empty. Having vented them, I reopened the valve to allow mains water in and brought the pressure back to just under 1.5 bar (as recommended in the manual). The system now appears to be working OK, but I have some questions: First, have I omitted anything or is the system good to go? There was a certain amount (but not much) of black sludge, and the Collins book suggests using an anti-corrosion aid in the water - how can I get that into a pressurised system? Is it necessary? Several people have mentioned that you can lock a thermostat valve closed using a suitable 'service cap' - where can I get one and how do I remove the thermostat body? Lastly, if I want to intentionally drain the system, I guess I'll need to find the draincock. Further, I guess this will be at (or level with) the lowest point in the system. I can't find it anywhere on the lower floor, though - any suggestions as to where I could find it? Thanks again for all the help so far! Cheers - Adam... Load of info in the SealedCH faq. The thermo valve should really have been able to shut off and the lock-sheild. Which side of the valves did you loosen to remove dthe rad? Did you add inhibitor on refilling. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
#4
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Radiators and CH system...
"Christian McArdle" wrote in message et...
-8- snip corrosion inhibitor question -8- It is absolutely essential to install corrosion inhibitor. On a pressurised system, there are a number of solutions to getting the stuff into the system. It is possible to get it concentrated into a syringe that you insert into the bleed valve on a suitable radiator. Thanks for the advice, Christian. I'm going to be removing another radiator fairly soon - I assume it will be OK to wait until then? My preferred technique is to add an additive point when the system is drained down. This consists of a T piece with a short length of pipe sticking vertically upwards terminated by an isolation valve and another short length of pipe. You can then stick a funnel in and pour what you like before refilling. Just remember to turn the valve off before starting the filling loop up! Using this method you can use standard inhibitor which is much cheaper than proprietary injection systems. I think I'll leave pipe work for the moment and go with other suggestions, such as squeezing gel into a radiator, for now. -8- snip draincock question -8- There might not be one. Install one yourself if you get the chance. It doesn't look like there is. Again, I'll leave this for the moment... Cheers - Adam... |
#5
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Radiators and CH system...
Ed Sirett wrote in message ...
Adam wrote: -8- snip -8- Load of info in the SealedCH faq. Indeed, and I've read it a couple of times now. The thermo valve should really have been able to shut off and the lock-sheild. That's what I though (thermostat should have closed). Next time I'll try the frost (*) setting rather than 0. Which side of the valves did you loosen to remove dthe rad? I first loosened the nut between the radiator and the lockshield (having closed the lockshield). By the time I got to the nut between the radiator and the thermostat, the system was empty. Did you add inhibitor on refilling. No (as discussed in previous posts), but I'll do it once I'm onto the next radiator that needs to be removed. Thanks for the help - Adam... |
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