Hi there,

I recently had fitted a new (Homebase - knotted Pine - £20) pine door from
Homebase onto my bathroom. I was just going to use Ronseal quick drying
varnish for the door as other doors in the flat have similar pine doors that
have been stained or varnished.

Then I noticed the bathroom varnish and although the door does not get wet,
the bathroom can get very steamy so I thought it was probably worth going
for this instead (at least on the side facing the bathroom).

Being a complete novice:

1) Is it worth going for this instead of the quick dry?
2) Can I get away with using my £1.99 set of brushes from B&Q. (5 brushed in
this set) as disposal brushes for this job?
3) I intended to use making tape around the handle and hinges to stop
varnish getting on them . Wise?
4) Anything else I should be aware of or other tips to help me get a good
job.

I thought I would just lay a sheet of cardboard under the door, do the
inside side first, then squeeze out and do the outside.
Once done I will move on to my new living room glass pine door (has lots of
glass pieces in it to let the light through). For this I thought I would use
masking tape to protect the glass panels in the door.

Any pointers appreciated.

Kind regards

Dave

David Smithz wrote:
Hi there,

I recently had fitted a new (Homebase - knotted Pine - £20) pine door
from Homebase onto my bathroom. I was just going to use Ronseal quick
drying varnish for the door as other doors in the flat have similar
pine doors that have been stained or varnished.

Then I noticed the bathroom varnish and although the door does not
get wet, the bathroom can get very steamy so I thought it was
probably worth going for this instead (at least on the side facing
the bathroom).
Being a complete novice:

1) Is it worth going for this instead of the quick dry?

No, manufacterers add the word 'bathroom' or kitchen' to paint and varnish
for one reason only, to add to it's price - I swear I saw last week in B&Q,
a tin of paint with the title 'Kitchen ceiling paint' - WTF?

2) Can I get away with using my £1.99 set of brushes from B&Q. (5
brushed in this set) as disposal brushes for this job?

If you like, although I wouldn't use them personally, but neither would I
purchase expensive brushes if they were to be used only once or twice.

3) I intended to use making tape around the handle and hinges to stop
varnish getting on them . Wise?

Fiddly and largely a waste of time, tape and effort, the hinges don't
matter, you can varnish over them (but don't allow runs), the handle and
keeper can be cut in easily enough.

4) Anything else I should be aware of or other tips to help me get a
good job.


Give it a good stirring first (tipping some into a clean container
beforehand to minimise mess)
Don't overload the brush - dip in no more than a third of the length of the
bristles each time, and don't scrape it off on the rim like an amateur, dab
it onto the inside of the tin to remove excess before applying it in even
strokes.

I thought I would just lay a sheet of cardboard under the door, do the
inside side first, then squeeze out and do the outside.

Squeezing past a wet door is rarely a good idea.
Go inside bathroom and close the door so that it is only open about a foot,
and wedged from the landing side, paint the bathroom side and the edge with
the lock.
Remove the wedge.
Open the door almost as far as it will go, but wedged from the bathroom
side, paint the landing side and the edge with the hinges.
Leave it wedged open until it's dry.

Once done I will move on to my new living room glass pine door (has
lots of glass pieces in it to let the light through). For this I
thought I would use masking tape to protect the glass panels in the
door.

You may need masking tape for this if your cutting in skills are minimal :-p

HTH

All sounds like good advice. Few points?

"Phil L"

No, manufacterers add the word 'bathroom' or kitchen' to paint and varnish
for one reason only, to add to it's price - I swear I saw last week in B&Q,
a tin of paint with the title 'Kitchen ceiling paint' - WTF?

So basically I can just stick with the ordinary Ronseal Quick dry stuff (20
min touch dry - I culd actually use the loo and read paper while drying).

Is it worth considering B&Q Homebrand even?

Fiddly and largely a waste of time, tape and effort, the hinges don't
matter, you can varnish over them (but don't allow runs), the handle and
keeper can be cut in easily enough.

Not sure what you mean by easily cut?

finally if I do by a better brush, what source of price should I go for.
Any other brush buying tips - I am a complete laymen, this is the first
house object I have ever painted.
I have two doors to do in total and some other MDF bits of wood (but these
will be coloured to match walls).

Thanks for your input.

Chris Bacon wrote:
David Smithz wrote:
All sounds like good advice. Few points?

Forgot to add, "Bounty" kitchen paper is worth having to clean brushes,
etc., and general use (don't use "ordinary" paper, though). You probably
want a 1" brush for the whole lot, although a smaller one may possibly
"feel" easier for cutting in around glass.

Guys,
a did hear/read a few years ago that you should never 'seal
wood'. My Magnet & Southern doors are Pine and all I do to them is to
oil them with either Pine oil or the cheaper Mangers Teak oil from B &
Q. To initially clean them I use a medium Wire Wool, a fine Wire Wool
will eventually give you a glass like finish. The wood can still
breathe using oil.

Chris.

On Wed, 08 Mar 2006 23:30:37 GMT, "David Smithz"
wrote:


All sounds like good advice. Few points?

"Phil L"

No, manufacterers add the word 'bathroom' or kitchen' to paint and varnish
for one reason only, to add to it's price - I swear I saw last week in B&Q,
a tin of paint with the title 'Kitchen ceiling paint' - WTF?

So basically I can just stick with the ordinary Ronseal Quick dry stuff (20
min touch dry - I culd actually use the loo and read paper while drying).


What ...?? Drying ...? You are having a shower as well.????

wrote:
Guys,
a did hear/read a few years ago that you should never 'seal
wood'. My Magnet & Southern doors are Pine and all I do to them is to
oil them with either Pine oil or the cheaper Mangers Teak oil from B &
Q. To initially clean them I use a medium Wire Wool, a fine Wire Wool
will eventually give you a glass like finish. The wood can still
breathe using oil.

Chris.


Doors do most of their breathing through the end grain i.e. top and
bottom edges, which are usually left unfinished

David Smithz wrote:
Hi there,

I recently had fitted a new (Homebase - knotted Pine - £20) pine door from
Homebase onto my bathroom.

Any pointers appreciated.

You poor bugger.

I put on the same door to my loo, but the door has bowed so much that
it's hard to get any privacy in there. (literally)

Good luck,

Paul.

The message .com
from contains these words:

a did hear/read a few years ago that you should never 'seal
wood'.

It may be a good idea to avoid painting over the top and bottom edges of
a door so it can breathe a bit.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.

"

It may be a good idea to avoid painting over the top and bottom edges of
a door so it can breathe a bit.

--
But if you have doors made of moulded (panelled) hardboard I would say it is
essential to remove the door and paint the bottom - otherwise it easily
de-laminates - or swells if it gets damp (eg if wiping the door with a damp
cloth). It is like blotting paper and swells up.


John

Guy King wrote:
The message .com
from contains these words:


a did hear/read a few years ago that you should never 'seal
wood'.


It may be a good idea to avoid painting over the top and bottom edges of
a door so it can breathe a bit.


It's dead mate. It doesn't need to breathe.