The care instructions for my habitat garden furniture (oak) say that I
should regularly oil it using paraffin/furniture oil.

Do you know where it can be purchased?

thank you,
CM

wrote in message
ups.com...
The care instructions for my habitat garden furniture (oak) say that I
should regularly oil it using paraffin/furniture oil.

Do you know where it can be purchased?

thank you,
CM


Never used Organoil and will have a look, but a traditional protective is
Tung or Teak oil.
Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and
once a year forever.
I have some oak doors (external) that are approaching 100 years old and are
in remarkably good fettle. Care instruction has been passed down through
the family.
HTH
Nick.

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 19:11:07 +0100, "Nick" wrote:

Never used Organoil and will have a look, but a traditional protective is
Tung or Teak oil.

Tung isn't very good (alone) outdoors. Teak oil is only for teak, ipe or
similar (it's mainly for appearance and assumes the wood is already
inherently oily)

I have some oak doors (external) that are approaching 100 years old and are
in remarkably good fettle.

That's because they're oak. If they're English white oak (or French)
then they'll last well just thrown outdoors and ignored, so long as
they're a big enough cross-section that radial cracking isn't a
structural problem. American white oak (Q. alba) isn't quite so robust,
but is still pretty good.

I don't know what Habitat are using these days. It could be a red oak
though, which is much less resistant and will need a finish.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
I have some oak doors (external) that are approaching 100 years old and
are
in remarkably good fettle.

That's because they're oak. If they're English white oak (or French)
then they'll last well just thrown outdoors and ignored, so long as
they're a big enough cross-section that radial cracking isn't a
structural problem.

Tht was my reaction. I've seen centuries old oak doors, untreated and in
daily use, which are fine.

Mary

[Cameron]

Originally Posted by

The care instructions for my habitat garden furniture (oak) say that I
should regularly oil it using paraffin/furniture oil.

Do you know where it can be purchased?

thank you,
CM

Not sure if this helps but cuprinol do various treatments that are white spirit based (decorative wood presserver, decking oil, etc) - these are generally aimed at the trade (- ie dont go to B&Q) - I've just used some of it on my guarden gate, good stuff kills all plants, vermin and cats!! and the finish is what I wood describe as one that shows of the wood, not one of those cheap B&Q gimmicky ones - you know - the ones come with those TV adverts and look like you've speared your fence with excrement. (if only I could spell)

Anyway what are you doing buying wooden furniture, your local builders merchants got a find select of wood and power tools to make your own!

Best regards

Cameron Taylor

wrote:
The care instructions for my habitat garden furniture (oak) say that I
should regularly oil it using paraffin/furniture oil.

Do you know where it can be purchased?

thank you,
CM

is linseed oil not better?

NT

On 13 Jun 2005 16:20:04 -0700, wrote:

is linseed oil not better?

No it's terrible. It;s hard to apply without leaving stickiness behind,
it yellows like crazy (why most finishing oils are based on tung, not
linseed) and it has poor weather resistance unless you use the right
sort of dried (aka boiled) oil - which is no longer clear.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 13 Jun 2005 16:20:04 -0700, wrote:

is linseed oil not better?

No it's terrible. It;s hard to apply without leaving stickiness behind,
it yellows like crazy (why most finishing oils are based on tung, not
linseed) and it has poor weather resistance unless you use the right
sort of dried (aka boiled) oil - which is no longer clear.

Interesting. Linseed oil paints are reckoned to have the longest
recoating times of all wood paints, at 15 years. Maybe the density of
pigment makes the yellowing not such an issue, and boiled is used?

NT

On 14 Jun 2005 04:57:14 -0700, wrote:

Interesting. Linseed oil paints are reckoned to have the longest
recoating times of all wood paints, at 15 years. Maybe the density of
pigment makes the yellowing not such an issue, and boiled is used?

Paints are pigmented - this stops UV action on most of the layer and is
the main reason why paint lasts better outdoors than varnish.

You can make perfectly usable linseed oil external finishing oils or
varnish/oil mixtures, but you can't make them clear and light in
colour.,