Ok, here's the situation ... I replaced a normal ceiling light
fitting with a fan/light combo. The fan is excellent and starting
to get more use now, but the light bulb can only be 60W and
through the white glass cover it doesn't light the room enough.

As a result I would like to add additional ceiling lighting in the
room. I can't have the one wall switch controlling the new
lighting *and* the fan because sometimes I would like to have
the fan on, but no light. As a result, I will probably go back
to having the wall switch control the lights, and make separate
arrangements for the fan.

Now here is the problem - because this room has already been
decorated, I don't want to run an extra cable to the light switch
so that I can fit a double wall switch. So, what are the alternatives?

Initially I wondered whether I needed a separate switch for the fan
as it has cords to turn the light/fan on and off. Even if this option
were within regs, I can see that in an emergency I might want to be
able to isolate the fan quickly without having to go near it! I could
fit a pull switch for the fan on the ceiling, which would look slightly
odd in a bedroom. Another option is to wire up an FCU for the fan
high on the wall outside the bedroom door, which hasn't been
decorated yet, so I don't mind disturbing the plaster.

So, what would you do? Are there any other options I haven't
thought of?

TIA, Al

So, what are the alternatives?

Have you considered a low energy bulb? If there's enough space in the
fitting, you can get these up to around 25W, which is brighter than a 100W
bulb. The fitting's limit will be based on actual energy usage, not
equivalent light output, unless it gives a separate guide for inductive
(i.e. low energy) loads.

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote:
So, what are the alternatives?

Have you considered a low energy bulb? If there's enough space in the
fitting, you can get these up to around 25W, which is brighter than a 100W
bulb. The fitting's limit will be based on actual energy usage, not
equivalent light output, unless it gives a separate guide for inductive
(i.e. low energy) loads.

Christian.

I'll give it a try. From memory the CF bulbs I have
in the house are equivalent to 100W (25W) but I
think they might be too long to fit in the fan light fitting.
Good idea though - thanks!

Al

I'll give it a try. From memory the CF bulbs I have
in the house are equivalent to 100W (25W) but I
think they might be too long to fit in the fan light fitting.
Good idea though - thanks!

Some brands are smaller than others. For compact unseen applications such as
these, you may be able to find a "spiral" format bulb, which would be
shorter than the traditional types.

Christian.

In article ,
"Al Reynolds" writes:
Ok, here's the situation ... I replaced a normal ceiling light
fitting with a fan/light combo. The fan is excellent and starting
to get more use now, but the light bulb can only be 60W and
through the white glass cover it doesn't light the room enough.

Does the fan have separate supply feeds for the motor and the
light?

As a result I would like to add additional ceiling lighting in the
room. I can't have the one wall switch controlling the new
lighting *and* the fan because sometimes I would like to have
the fan on, but no light. As a result, I will probably go back
to having the wall switch control the lights, and make separate
arrangements for the fan.

Now here is the problem - because this room has already been
decorated, I don't want to run an extra cable to the light switch
so that I can fit a double wall switch. So, what are the alternatives?

Could you fit a separate infra-red remote operated switch for the fan
somewhere else in the room? One possibility would be on the ceiling
next to the fan where it could draw on the permanent supply for the
loop-in wiring. Might not look to pretty there though, and you should
also have a separate 2-pole isolator switch there I guess (although
reaching through the fan blades to get the the fan isolator is probably
a bit of a no-no;-) If you can get more hidden wires from the fan to
the top of a wall, that would be a better location both from point of
view of less wall chasing and for receiving the remote signal when
you're laying in bed.

Initially I wondered whether I needed a separate switch for the fan
as it has cords to turn the light/fan on and off. Even if this option
were within regs, I can see that in an emergency I might want to be
able to isolate the fan quickly without having to go near it! I could

You probably don't need to consider emergency switching. Isolation
for maintenance probably should be considered for such fans, but
never is.

Over the last 15 years or so, I have gradually rewired a house
lighting circuit. I put triple and earth in to all the ceiling
roses and light switches, and this has since proved quite useful.
Probably half of the circuits are now using the extra conductor
for some additional lighting control which was added later.
(In this installation, all cables run back to a central lighting
control box, which serves the function of a mains patch panel,
and was later very easy to convert to home-automation control.)

--
Andrew Gabriel