I thought I made it clear but obviously I didn't. I don't want to stop
the spindle when changing parts. The lathe's hydraulic closer will
only operate when the spindle is stopped. So the spindle must be
stopped to change parts. There isn't even a parameter I can change to
make this happen. I know because I looked and because I asked FANUC
and MIYANO. Besides the time it takes to stop the spindle it also uses
a lot of energy to start the spindle each time. I also need a dead
length collet setup. Which means that if I use my Royal air collet
closer I will also need to spend $200.00 for a Hardinge dead length
collet assembly. Plus, the Royal closer is only good for 1500 RPM. I
want 4000 RPM. Since I already have a nice dead length air closer that
I can easily mount to the spindle, an Eaton rotary union good for 4000
RPM and air at 150 PSI, a solenoid operated valve, a power supply for
the valve, and switches, all I need is a way to get power to the
spinning valve. Unless sombody has a complete air closer system good
for 4000 RPM that they want to give to me I am going to order a set of
alternator brushes for 17 bucks and make a slip ring setup.
Eric

wrote in message
...
I thought I made it clear but obviously I didn't. I don't want to
stop
the spindle when changing parts. The lathe's hydraulic closer will
only operate when the spindle is stopped. So the spindle must be
stopped to change parts. There isn't even a parameter I can change
to
make this happen. I know because I looked and because I asked FANUC
and MIYANO. Besides the time it takes to stop the spindle it also
uses
a lot of energy to start the spindle each time. I also need a dead
length collet setup. Which means that if I use my Royal air collet
closer I will also need to spend $200.00 for a Hardinge dead length
collet assembly. Plus, the Royal closer is only good for 1500 RPM. I
want 4000 RPM. Since I already have a nice dead length air closer
that
I can easily mount to the spindle, an Eaton rotary union good for
4000
RPM and air at 150 PSI, a solenoid operated valve, a power supply
for
the valve, and switches, all I need is a way to get power to the
spinning valve. Unless sombody has a complete air closer system good
for 4000 RPM that they want to give to me I am going to order a set
of
alternator brushes for 17 bucks and make a slip ring setup.
Eric

http://www.morganelectricalmaterials...balproof_0.pdf

On Sat, 15 Apr 2017 15:16:01 -0700, wrote:

I thought I made it clear but obviously I didn't. I don't want to stop
the spindle when changing parts. The lathe's hydraulic closer will
only operate when the spindle is stopped. So the spindle must be
stopped to change parts. There isn't even a parameter I can change to
make this happen. I know because I looked and because I asked FANUC
and MIYANO. Besides the time it takes to stop the spindle it also uses
a lot of energy to start the spindle each time. I also need a dead
length collet setup. Which means that if I use my Royal air collet
closer I will also need to spend $200.00 for a Hardinge dead length
collet assembly. Plus, the Royal closer is only good for 1500 RPM. I
want 4000 RPM. Since I already have a nice dead length air closer that
I can easily mount to the spindle, an Eaton rotary union good for 4000
RPM and air at 150 PSI, a solenoid operated valve, a power supply for
the valve, and switches, all I need is a way to get power to the
spinning valve. Unless sombody has a complete air closer system good
for 4000 RPM that they want to give to me I am going to order a set of
alternator brushes for 17 bucks and make a slip ring setup.
Eric

Dead length? Isnt a hard stop good enough, or are you bar feeding? If
you are bar feeding..you dont need dead length system..simply feed to
a position from the spindle nose, open the collet, let the material
run into a hard stop and then close.

Id be more than happy to give you an air collet closer thats good for
4k (btw..unless your Royal is an antique..4k is not a problem for
them)

You may likey have to put bearings in one, that is about $120 and
maybe a $25 seal kit. And lengthen the draw tube/replace the draw
tube to whatever length you need.


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On Sat, 15 Apr 2017 15:16:01 -0700, wrote:

I thought I made it clear but obviously I didn't. I don't want to stop
the spindle when changing parts. The lathe's hydraulic closer will
only operate when the spindle is stopped. So the spindle must be
stopped to change parts. There isn't even a parameter I can change to
make this happen. I know because I looked and because I asked FANUC
and MIYANO. Besides the time it takes to stop the spindle it also uses
a lot of energy to start the spindle each time. I also need a dead
length collet setup. Which means that if I use my Royal air collet
closer I will also need to spend $200.00 for a Hardinge dead length
collet assembly. Plus, the Royal closer is only good for 1500 RPM. I
want 4000 RPM. Since I already have a nice dead length air closer that
I can easily mount to the spindle, an Eaton rotary union good for 4000
RPM and air at 150 PSI, a solenoid operated valve, a power supply for
the valve, and switches, all I need is a way to get power to the
spinning valve. Unless sombody has a complete air closer system good
for 4000 RPM that they want to give to me I am going to order a set of
alternator brushes for 17 bucks and make a slip ring setup.
Eric
You are on the right track - don't make it any more complicated than
necessary.

On Sat, 15 Apr 2017 18:37:28 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
I thought I made it clear but obviously I didn't. I don't want to
stop
the spindle when changing parts. The lathe's hydraulic closer will
only operate when the spindle is stopped. So the spindle must be
stopped to change parts. There isn't even a parameter I can change
to
make this happen. I know because I looked and because I asked FANUC
and MIYANO. Besides the time it takes to stop the spindle it also
uses
a lot of energy to start the spindle each time. I also need a dead
length collet setup. Which means that if I use my Royal air collet
closer I will also need to spend $200.00 for a Hardinge dead length
collet assembly. Plus, the Royal closer is only good for 1500 RPM. I
want 4000 RPM. Since I already have a nice dead length air closer
that
I can easily mount to the spindle, an Eaton rotary union good for
4000
RPM and air at 150 PSI, a solenoid operated valve, a power supply
for
the valve, and switches, all I need is a way to get power to the
spinning valve. Unless sombody has a complete air closer system good
for 4000 RPM that they want to give to me I am going to order a set
of
alternator brushes for 17 bucks and make a slip ring setup.
Eric

http://www.morganelectricalmaterials...balproof_0.pdf

Stick with Natural Graphite brushes for the highest FPM (up to 80)

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 15 Apr 2017 18:37:28 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

...
http://www.morganelectricalmaterials...balproof_0.pdf

Stick with Natural Graphite brushes for the highest FPM (up to 80)

I posted it for the recommendations on surface finish and bedding new
brushes.