Okay, rewinding what I have is NOT ($$$) an option.


From my previous post:

There are 9 wires coming out of the motor, with metal number tags.



1,2 and 3 all separate, I assume went to the reverse switch, which is
not there.

4 and 7 tied together
5 and 8 tied together
6 and 9 tied together

This allowed it to run on our 460 3 phase at the shop.


Will this drop it to 230?

1 and 7 tied together, use as L1 input
2 and 8 tied together, use as L2 input
3 and 9 tied together, use as L3 input

Tie 4,5 and 6 together, insulate and tuck away.

If this will work, then I can get a 230 volt input VFD, waaay cheaper
than rewinding my motor.

Being as how I have no diagram for the motor, I looked at a LOT of
pictures & web pages, and it looks like my current wiring is pretty
standard for a 460v 3 phase motor, which matches the motor plates I
looked at, which had Hi and Low wiring diagrams, which is where I got
the above possible solution for my Low wiring.











--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

"Steve Walker" wrote in message
...
Okay, rewinding what I have is NOT ($$$) an option.


From my previous post:

There are 9 wires coming out of the motor, with metal number tags.



1,2 and 3 all separate, I assume went to the reverse switch, which is not
there.

4 and 7 tied together
5 and 8 tied together
6 and 9 tied together

This allowed it to run on our 460 3 phase at the shop.


It is 9 lead and was connected high voltage wye then...


Will this drop it to 230?

1 and 7 tied together, use as L1 input
2 and 8 tied together, use as L2 input
3 and 9 tied together, use as L3 input

Tie 4,5 and 6 together, insulate and tuck away.

If this will work, then I can get a 230 volt input VFD, waaay cheaper than
rewinding my motor.


Yes, and in doing so, you will be connecting the second set of wye windings
into parallel operation with the first, whereas they previously had been
connected in series with each other= low voltage wye.


Being as how I have no diagram for the motor, I looked at a LOT of
pictures & web pages, and it looks like my current wiring is pretty
standard for a 460v 3 phase motor, which matches the motor plates I looked
at, which had Hi and Low wiring diagrams, which is where I got the above
possible solution for my Low wiring.



If all 12 leads are brought out to the peckerhead then a person can connect
either as delta or wye on a whim...and there also exist various "soft start"
and "wye delta shift" scenarios that can be user-incorporated...

--but if there's only 9 leads then whether it is delta or wye depends upon
internal connection.... and without knowing how it was previously connected,
you would need to run continuity test in order to be sure--ans so here is a
diagram one can use to do that with:

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/El...or_diagram.JPG

Note on the wye internal connection, the only place lead #1 only rings out
to is at #4, whereas with the delta, #1 rings out to both 4 and 9

--

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:G_2dnVTHmPEJX3PQnZ2dnUVZ_hGdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Steve Walker" wrote in message
...
Okay, rewinding what I have is NOT ($$$) an option.


From my previous post:

There are 9 wires coming out of the motor, with metal number tags.



1,2 and 3 all separate, I assume went to the reverse switch, which is not
there.

4 and 7 tied together
5 and 8 tied together
6 and 9 tied together

This allowed it to run on our 460 3 phase at the shop.


It is 9 lead and was connected high voltage wye then...


OOPs it could also be it was connected as high voltage delta as the
connection is the same regardless...



Will this drop it to 230?

1 and 7 tied together, use as L1 input
2 and 8 tied together, use as L2 input
3 and 9 tied together, use as L3 input

Tie 4,5 and 6 together, insulate and tuck away.

If this will work, then I can get a 230 volt input VFD, waaay cheaper
than rewinding my motor.


Yes, and in doing so, you will be connecting the second set of wye
windings into parallel operation with the first, whereas they previously
had been connected in series with each other= low voltage wye.


Unless it was connected as high voltage delta, in which case, see the below
as the only way to tell them apart is to test continuity as I had explained
in my previous post


Being as how I have no diagram for the motor, I looked at a LOT of
pictures & web pages, and it looks like my current wiring is pretty
standard for a 460v 3 phase motor, which matches the motor plates I
looked at, which had Hi and Low wiring diagrams, which is where I got the
above possible solution for my Low wiring.



If all 12 leads are brought out to the peckerhead then a person can
connect either as delta or wye on a whim...and there also exist various
"soft start" and "wye delta shift" scenarios that can be
user-incorporated...

--but if there's only 9 leads then whether it is delta or wye depends upon
internal connection.... and without knowing how it was previously
connected, you would need to run continuity test in order to be sure--ans
so here is a diagram one can use to do that with:

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/El...or_diagram.JPG

Note on the wye internal connection, the only place lead #1 only rings out
to is at #4, whereas with the delta, #1 rings out to both 4 and 9


9 lead motors irritate me...

--

On 6/7/2011 20:40, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

SNIP



It is 9 lead and was connected high voltage wye then...


OOPs it could also be it was connected as high voltage delta as the
connection is the same regardless...



Will this drop it to 230?

1 and 7 tied together, use as L1 input
2 and 8 tied together, use as L2 input
3 and 9 tied together, use as L3 input

Tie 4,5 and 6 together, insulate and tuck away.

If this will work, then I can get a 230 volt input VFD, waaay cheaper
than rewinding my motor.


Yes, and in doing so, you will be connecting the second set of wye
windings into parallel operation with the first, whereas they previously
had been connected in series with each other= low voltage wye.


Unless it was connected as high voltage delta, in which case, see the below
as the only way to tell them apart is to test continuity as I had explained
in my previous post


Being as how I have no diagram for the motor, I looked at a LOT of
pictures& web pages, and it looks like my current wiring is pretty
standard for a 460v 3 phase motor, which matches the motor plates I
looked at, which had Hi and Low wiring diagrams, which is where I got the
above possible solution for my Low wiring.



If all 12 leads are brought out to the peckerhead then a person can
connect either as delta or wye on a whim...and there also exist various
"soft start" and "wye delta shift" scenarios that can be
user-incorporated...

--but if there's only 9 leads then whether it is delta or wye depends upon
internal connection.... and without knowing how it was previously
connected, you would need to run continuity test in order to be sure--ans
so here is a diagram one can use to do that with:

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/El...or_diagram.JPG

Note on the wye internal connection, the only place lead #1 only rings out
to is at #4, whereas with the delta, #1 rings out to both 4 and 9

Thank you very much. I'll get the Fluke out tomorrow & check it out.



9 lead motors irritate me...

All the more so me, as up until now my only knowledge of three phase
was, "don't F*** with it, get maintainence". G

Wanna recommend a 2 HP VFD? I'm guessing that will be good enough for my
needs. Also, will I be able to reverse while tapping with a VFD?

If a VFD will work, I'll probably just set it up to run the motor at
it's rated speed, and use the step pulleys for what I need, as it's just
a hobby mill for home.


--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

Steve Walker wrote:

All the more so me, as up until now my only knowledge of three phase
was, "don't F*** with it, get maintainence". G

Simple stuff really.


Wanna recommend a 2 HP VFD? I'm guessing that will be good enough for my
needs. Also, will I be able to reverse while tapping with a VFD?

If a VFD will work, I'll probably just set it up to run the motor at
it's rated speed, and use the step pulleys for what I need, as it's just
a hobby mill for home.

http://www.driveswarehouse.com

Look for a 1 HP VFD that is rated for single phase input. VFDs that are
rated for single phase input do not need to be de-rated / oversized when
running from single phase. VFDs that are not specifically rated for
single phase input do have to be de-rated / oversized when running on
single phase input. A few VFDs, typically fairly high HP ones will not
run on single phase input at all. A few smaller VFDs are actually single
phase input only. You don't need a fancy unit, just a basic model will
be fine for a Bridgeport.

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Steve Walker wrote:

All the more so me, as up until now my only knowledge of three phase
was, "don't F*** with it, get maintainence". G

Simple stuff really.


Wanna recommend a 2 HP VFD? I'm guessing that will be good enough for my
needs. Also, will I be able to reverse while tapping with a VFD?

If a VFD will work, I'll probably just set it up to run the motor at
it's rated speed, and use the step pulleys for what I need, as it's just
a hobby mill for home.

http://www.driveswarehouse.com

Look for a 1 HP VFD that is rated for single phase input. VFDs that are
rated for single phase input do not need to be de-rated / oversized when
running from single phase. VFDs that are not specifically rated for
single phase input do have to be de-rated / oversized when running on
single phase input. A few VFDs, typically fairly high HP ones will not
run on single phase input at all. A few smaller VFDs are actually single
phase input only. You don't need a fancy unit, just a basic model will
be fine for a Bridgeport.

As to speed, motors can fly apart if run too fast basically meaning that
anything above say 20% over rated and all bets are off.

On the other hand, slower speeds are okay BUT for short periods of time
ONLY....

--reason being, lack of cooling air flow volume will cause the motor get hot
unless you add an auxillary fan to it.

On Tue, 07 Jun 2011 19:21:23 -0400, Steve Walker
wrote:

1,2 and 3 all separate, I assume went to the reverse switch, which is
not there.

4 and 7 tied together
5 and 8 tied together
6 and 9 tied together

This allowed it to run on our 460 3 phase at the shop.


Will this drop it to 230?

1 and 7 tied together, use as L1 input
2 and 8 tied together, use as L2 input
3 and 9 tied together, use as L3 input

Tie 4,5 and 6 together, insulate and tuck away.

If this will work, then I can get a 230 volt input VFD, waaay cheaper
than rewinding my motor.


Ayup.


The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

On Tue, 07 Jun 2011 21:19:49 -0400, Steve Walker
wrote:


9 lead motors irritate me...

All the more so me, as up until now my only knowledge of three phase
was, "don't F*** with it, get maintainence". G

Wanna recommend a 2 HP VFD? I'm guessing that will be good enough for my
needs. Also, will I be able to reverse while tapping with a VFD?

If a VFD will work, I'll probably just set it up to run the motor at
it's rated speed, and use the step pulleys for what I need, as it's just
a hobby mill for home.

If the motor is 2hp..put on a MINIMUM of a 3hp VFD if running from
single phase.

Running on single phase costs you at least 25% efficency if its designed
for 3ph input

Gunner

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Steve Walker wrote:

All the more so me, as up until now my only knowledge of three phase
was, "don't F*** with it, get maintainence". G

Simple stuff really.


Wanna recommend a 2 HP VFD? I'm guessing that will be good enough for my
needs. Also, will I be able to reverse while tapping with a VFD?

If a VFD will work, I'll probably just set it up to run the motor at
it's rated speed, and use the step pulleys for what I need, as it's just
a hobby mill for home.

http://www.driveswarehouse.com

Look for a 1 HP VFD that is rated for single phase input. VFDs that are
rated for single phase input do not need to be de-rated / oversized when
running from single phase. VFDs that are not specifically rated for
single phase input do have to be de-rated / oversized when running on
single phase input. A few VFDs, typically fairly high HP ones will not
run on single phase input at all. A few smaller VFDs are actually single
phase input only. You don't need a fancy unit, just a basic model will
be fine for a Bridgeport.

As to speed, motors can fly apart if run too fast basically meaning that
anything above say 20% over rated and all bets are off.

On the other hand, slower speeds are okay BUT for short periods of time
ONLY....

--reason being, lack of cooling air flow volume will cause the motor get hot
unless you add an auxillary fan to it.



WRT speed, on my Bridgeports I never overspeed the motors. What I
typically do is leave the belts set at or one down from top RPM and use
the VFD to slow it down as needed for what I'm doing, typically 30 or 45
Hz. Since I'm not normally taking cuts heavy enough to need full HP,
this works fine. For the odd time I really need the HP I'll run the
motor at 60 Hz and adjust the belts and/or back gear. For manual hobby
milling the duty cycle is low so heating isn't a problem.

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Tue, 07 Jun 2011 21:19:49 -0400, Steve Walker
wrote:


9 lead motors irritate me...

All the more so me, as up until now my only knowledge of three phase
was, "don't F*** with it, get maintainence". G

Wanna recommend a 2 HP VFD? I'm guessing that will be good enough for my
needs. Also, will I be able to reverse while tapping with a VFD?

If a VFD will work, I'll probably just set it up to run the motor at
it's rated speed, and use the step pulleys for what I need, as it's just
a hobby mill for home.

If the motor is 2hp..put on a MINIMUM of a 3hp VFD if running from
single phase.

I don't believe he has a 2 HP motor, if he has a step pulley head it's
going to be a 1 HP motor.


Running on single phase costs you at least 25% efficency if its designed
for 3ph input

Capacity, not efficiency, and that's only if the VFD is rated for 3
phase. Many smaller VFDs are rated for single phase input and require no
upsizing. Some smaller VFDs are single phase input only.

On 2011-06-07, Steve Walker wrote:
Okay, rewinding what I have is NOT ($$$) an option.


From my previous post:

There are 9 wires coming out of the motor, with metal number tags.

[ ... ]

Will this drop it to 230?

1 and 7 tied together, use as L1 input
2 and 8 tied together, use as L2 input
3 and 9 tied together, use as L3 input

Tie 4,5 and 6 together, insulate and tuck away.

Yes! I posted similar advice earlier.

If this will work, then I can get a 230 volt input VFD, waaay cheaper
than rewinding my motor.

Yes. Just make sure that your VFD is one which can run from
single phase input -- and rate it a bit higher than the motor to make up
for the lack of the third input wire.

Being as how I have no diagram for the motor, I looked at a LOT of
pictures & web pages, and it looks like my current wiring is pretty
standard for a 460v 3 phase motor, which matches the motor plates I
looked at, which had Hi and Low wiring diagrams, which is where I got
the above possible solution for my Low wiring.

It is a very common way to set up dual voltage three phase
motors in the USA. UK motors appear to have 6 wires, and you get one
(higher) voltage by wiring it in Wye format, and the other (lower)
voltage wiring it in Delta format. But these voltages do not go in a
double/half relationship.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2011-06-08, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

[ ... ]

Look for a 1 HP VFD that is rated for single phase input. VFDs that are
rated for single phase input do not need to be de-rated / oversized when

[ ... ]

As to speed, motors can fly apart if run too fast basically meaning that
anything above say 20% over rated and all bets are off.

This depends. Since the same rotor is used in 2-pole, 4-pole,
6-pole, and likely other motors -- if the rated speed at 60 Hz is 1800
RPM (actually slightly less) or lower, don't worry. Only worry if the
rated motor speed is near 3600 RPM (3500 or 3550 likely) -- which means
that it is a 2-pole motor, and a VFD set to above 60 Hz will be running
it faster than the design speed of the rotor. I doubt that you will
find a Bridgeport with a 2-pole motor.

Looks like your nameplate says 1740 RPM (a bit under 1800 RPM,
so it is a four-pole motor, and should be safe at all VFD speeds --
though whether the drive belt will be happy is a different question. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 8 Jun 2011 05:17:15 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-06-08, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

[ ... ]

Look for a 1 HP VFD that is rated for single phase input. VFDs that are
rated for single phase input do not need to be de-rated / oversized when

[ ... ]

As to speed, motors can fly apart if run too fast basically meaning that
anything above say 20% over rated and all bets are off.

This depends. Since the same rotor is used in 2-pole, 4-pole,
6-pole, and likely other motors -- if the rated speed at 60 Hz is 1800
RPM (actually slightly less) or lower, don't worry. Only worry if the
rated motor speed is near 3600 RPM (3500 or 3550 likely) -- which means
that it is a 2-pole motor, and a VFD set to above 60 Hz will be running
it faster than the design speed of the rotor. I doubt that you will
find a Bridgeport with a 2-pole motor.

Looks like your nameplate says 1740 RPM (a bit under 1800 RPM,
so it is a four-pole motor, and should be safe at all VFD speeds --
though whether the drive belt will be happy is a different question. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

I drive 1750 rpm motors up to 4000 rpm with no issues. Up to and
including 5 hp motors as found in the OmniTurn cnc lathes.

Gunner

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

Yes. Just make sure that your VFD is one which can run from
single phase input -- and rate it a bit higher than the motor to make up
for the lack of the third input wire.

You do not have to oversize a VFD that is *rated* for single phase
input. Some smaller VFDs are single phase input only.

On 6/7/2011 20:40, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:


http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/El...or_diagram.JPG

Note on the wye internal connection, the only place lead #1 only rings out
to is at #4, whereas with the delta, #1 rings out to both 4 and 9

Got the Fluke out, & checked continuity on all wires, after unconnecting
these 3 pairs that were connected: 4-7, 5-8, 6-9.

Got continuity on:
1-4, 2-5, 3-6, 7-8-9. This corresponds to high voltage "Y" winding on
the picture.

New 230v wiring will connect:

1-7 to T1
2-8 to T2
3-9 to T3

4-5-6 tied together and tucked away.


Gonna order the VFD Friday. Hope the smoke stays in the motor. G

Hitachi X200-007NFU1 from Drive Warehouse. $159 plus shipping from
Dallas, TX to Muskegon, MI.

Thank you very much, once again.

A friend of my brothers just bought a Bridgeport, he's gonna build a
rotary convertor, I think he's gonna be a little envious.



--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

Steve Walker wrote:

On 6/7/2011 20:40, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:


http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/El...or_diagram.JPG

Note on the wye internal connection, the only place lead #1 only rings out
to is at #4, whereas with the delta, #1 rings out to both 4 and 9

Got the Fluke out, & checked continuity on all wires, after unconnecting
these 3 pairs that were connected: 4-7, 5-8, 6-9.

Got continuity on:
1-4, 2-5, 3-6, 7-8-9. This corresponds to high voltage "Y" winding on
the picture.

New 230v wiring will connect:

1-7 to T1
2-8 to T2
3-9 to T3

4-5-6 tied together and tucked away.

Gonna order the VFD Friday. Hope the smoke stays in the motor. G

Hitachi X200-007NFU1 from Drive Warehouse. $159 plus shipping from
Dallas, TX to Muskegon, MI.

Thank you very much, once again.

A friend of my brothers just bought a Bridgeport, he's gonna build a
rotary convertor, I think he's gonna be a little envious.

Small basic VFDs are at the point they are cheaper than building a
rotary converter if you put any value on your time. They are also
quieter than a rotary converter and of course give you variable speed,
soft start and braking that you don't get with a rotary converter.

"Steve Walker" wrote in message
...
On 6/7/2011 20:40, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:


http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/El...or_diagram.JPG

Note on the wye internal connection, the only place lead #1 only rings
out
to is at #4, whereas with the delta, #1 rings out to both 4 and 9

Got the Fluke out, & checked continuity on all wires, after unconnecting
these 3 pairs that were connected: 4-7, 5-8, 6-9.

Got continuity on:
1-4, 2-5, 3-6, 7-8-9. This corresponds to high voltage "Y" winding on the
picture.


Yup you pretty much nailed it.


New 230v wiring will connect:

1-7 to T1
2-8 to T2
3-9 to T3

4-5-6 tied together and tucked away.


If there is contactors with heaters in them then the elements will need to
be swapped out for low voltage operation--any fuses probably will need
swapped too.

I would guess allen bradly or westinghouse contactors--if so, then charts
showing the correct part number should be easy enough to find online.



Gonna order the VFD Friday. Hope the smoke stays in the motor. G

Hitachi X200-007NFU1 from Drive Warehouse. $159 plus shipping from Dallas,
TX to Muskegon, MI.

Thank you very much, once again.


Your perfectly welcome.

A friend of my brothers just bought a Bridgeport, he's gonna build a
rotary convertor, I think he's gonna be a little envious.

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Small basic VFDs are at the point they are cheaper than building a
rotary converter if you put any value on your time. They are also
quieter than a rotary converter and of course give you variable speed,
soft start and braking that you don't get with a rotary converter.

Rotaries can generate quite a bit of unwanted heat in the summer time.

--

On 6/8/2011 18:16, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:





If there is contactors with heaters in them then the elements will need to
be swapped out for low voltage operation--any fuses probably will need
swapped too.


Thanks, I forgot about that. There is a contactor on the side of the
mill, with a separate on/off switch.I'll have to get a 230v setup to
replace it.

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Steve Walker" wrote in message
...
On 6/7/2011 20:40, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:


http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/El...or_diagram.JPG

Note on the wye internal connection, the only place lead #1 only rings
out
to is at #4, whereas with the delta, #1 rings out to both 4 and 9

Got the Fluke out, & checked continuity on all wires, after unconnecting
these 3 pairs that were connected: 4-7, 5-8, 6-9.

Got continuity on:
1-4, 2-5, 3-6, 7-8-9. This corresponds to high voltage "Y" winding on the
picture.


Yup you pretty much nailed it.

New 230v wiring will connect:

1-7 to T1
2-8 to T2
3-9 to T3

4-5-6 tied together and tucked away.


If there is contactors with heaters in them then the elements will need to
be swapped out for low voltage operation--any fuses probably will need
swapped too.

I would guess allen bradly or westinghouse contactors--if so, then charts
showing the correct part number should be easy enough to find online.


Gonna order the VFD Friday. Hope the smoke stays in the motor. G

Hitachi X200-007NFU1 from Drive Warehouse. $159 plus shipping from Dallas,
TX to Muskegon, MI.

Thank you very much, once again.


Your perfectly welcome.

A friend of my brothers just bought a Bridgeport, he's gonna build a
rotary convertor, I think he's gonna be a little envious.


Perhaps an extra warning is appropriate: *** DO NOT SWITCH THE
CONNECTIONS BETWEEN THE VFD AND THE MOTOR ***

If the motor leads should connect directly from the motor to the VFD, no
switches, contactors or starters in that circuit. Switching the leads
between a motor and VFD under power has a good probability of blowing up
the VFD.

All start, stop, forward and reverse functions have to be controlled
through the VFD. You can use the front panel controls on the VFD for
this purpose, or you can wire the original FWD-OFF-REV switch on the
machine to the VFD's control inputs to make it operate "transparently".
I've done this on one of my Bridgeports and will do the same on the
other soon.

On 6/8/2011 20:41, Pete C. wrote:

SNIP


Perhaps an extra warning is appropriate: *** DO NOT SWITCH THE
CONNECTIONS BETWEEN THE VFD AND THE MOTOR ***

If the motor leads should connect directly from the motor to the VFD, no
switches, contactors or starters in that circuit. Switching the leads
between a motor and VFD under power has a good probability of blowing up
the VFD.

All start, stop, forward and reverse functions have to be controlled
through the VFD. You can use the front panel controls on the VFD for
this purpose, or you can wire the original FWD-OFF-REV switch on the
machine to the VFD's control inputs to make it operate "transparently".
I've done this on one of my Bridgeports and will do the same on the
other soon.


Thanks. I have already gotten the manual, and read all the safety
warnings. Lots of them.


--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 19:41:35 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Steve Walker" wrote in message
...
On 6/7/2011 20:40, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:


http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/El...or_diagram.JPG

Note on the wye internal connection, the only place lead #1 only rings
out
to is at #4, whereas with the delta, #1 rings out to both 4 and 9

Got the Fluke out, & checked continuity on all wires, after unconnecting
these 3 pairs that were connected: 4-7, 5-8, 6-9.

Got continuity on:
1-4, 2-5, 3-6, 7-8-9. This corresponds to high voltage "Y" winding on the
picture.


Yup you pretty much nailed it.

New 230v wiring will connect:

1-7 to T1
2-8 to T2
3-9 to T3

4-5-6 tied together and tucked away.


If there is contactors with heaters in them then the elements will need to
be swapped out for low voltage operation--any fuses probably will need
swapped too.

I would guess allen bradly or westinghouse contactors--if so, then charts
showing the correct part number should be easy enough to find online.


Gonna order the VFD Friday. Hope the smoke stays in the motor. G

Hitachi X200-007NFU1 from Drive Warehouse. $159 plus shipping from Dallas,
TX to Muskegon, MI.

Thank you very much, once again.


Your perfectly welcome.

A friend of my brothers just bought a Bridgeport, he's gonna build a
rotary convertor, I think he's gonna be a little envious.


Perhaps an extra warning is appropriate: *** DO NOT SWITCH THE
CONNECTIONS BETWEEN THE VFD AND THE MOTOR ***

If the motor leads should connect directly from the motor to the VFD, no
switches, contactors or starters in that circuit. Switching the leads
between a motor and VFD under power has a good probability of blowing up
the VFD.

All start, stop, forward and reverse functions have to be controlled
through the VFD. You can use the front panel controls on the VFD for
this purpose, or you can wire the original FWD-OFF-REV switch on the
machine to the VFD's control inputs to make it operate "transparently".
I've done this on one of my Bridgeports and will do the same on the
other soon.

Absolutely CORRECT!

Ive repaired/replaced more than 1 VFD that someone has hooked the
machine on/off switch between the VFD and the machine.

Lets out the magic smoke fairly quickly on many VFDs

Gunner

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 19:41:35 -0500, "Pete C." wrote:



Perhaps an extra warning is appropriate: *** DO NOT SWITCH THE
CONNECTIONS BETWEEN THE VFD AND THE MOTOR ***

If the motor leads should connect directly from the motor to the VFD, no
switches, contactors or starters in that circuit. Switching the leads
between a motor and VFD under power has a good probability of blowing up
the VFD.

All start, stop, forward and reverse functions have to be controlled
through the VFD. You can use the front panel controls on the VFD for
this purpose, or you can wire the original FWD-OFF-REV switch on the
machine to the VFD's control inputs to make it operate "transparently".
I've done this on one of my Bridgeports and will do the same on the
other soon.


A lot of this is urban myth. I have no problems at all with doing this. The
three phase supply to my shop is provided by a 23kVA VFD...


Mark Rand
RTFM

Mark Rand fired this volley in
:

A lot of this is urban myth. I have no problems at all with doing
this. The three phase supply to my shop is provided by a 23kVA VFD...


Joke, right? A lot of this ISN'T urban myth, too. MOST small VFD's
documentation warns against connecting and disconnecting the load while
powered. It has to do with reverse EMF caused by any inductor's being
switched rapidly.

Besides, the average machine might have a 3.5KVA-7KVA unit driving one
motor. Yours is a monster by ordinary perspective, and it might even be
designed for that specific duty.

LLoyd

"Mark Rand" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 19:41:35 -0500, "Pete C." wrote:



Perhaps an extra warning is appropriate: *** DO NOT SWITCH THE
CONNECTIONS BETWEEN THE VFD AND THE MOTOR ***

If the motor leads should connect directly from the motor to the VFD, no
switches, contactors or starters in that circuit. Switching the leads
between a motor and VFD under power has a good probability of blowing up
the VFD.

All start, stop, forward and reverse functions have to be controlled
through the VFD. You can use the front panel controls on the VFD for
this purpose, or you can wire the original FWD-OFF-REV switch on the
machine to the VFD's control inputs to make it operate "transparently".
I've done this on one of my Bridgeports and will do the same on the
other soon.


A lot of this is urban myth. I have no problems at all with doing this.
The
three phase supply to my shop is provided by a 23kVA VFD...


Mark Rand
RTFM

You may be right that there are no problems, but that warning was in the
Allen Bradley literature on my VFD's, so I think that puts it in a different
category than alligators in NYC's sewers.

On 2011-06-09, Mark Rand wrote:
On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 19:41:35 -0500, "Pete C." wrote:



Perhaps an extra warning is appropriate: *** DO NOT SWITCH THE
CONNECTIONS BETWEEN THE VFD AND THE MOTOR ***

If the motor leads should connect directly from the motor to the VFD, no
switches, contactors or starters in that circuit. Switching the leads
between a motor and VFD under power has a good probability of blowing up
the VFD.

All start, stop, forward and reverse functions have to be controlled
through the VFD. You can use the front panel controls on the VFD for
this purpose, or you can wire the original FWD-OFF-REV switch on the
machine to the VFD's control inputs to make it operate "transparently".
I've done this on one of my Bridgeports and will do the same on the
other soon.


A lot of this is urban myth. I have no problems at all with doing this. The
three phase supply to my shop is provided by a 23kVA VFD...

And what wattage/HP loads are you switching? The problem comes
when the switched load is close to the rating of the VFD. A
significantly oversized one controls the inductive kick from the
switched load quite well.

I've got a VFD rated at 30A input and output, and it is quite
happy with a small switched load (1 HP 240 VAC 3-phase motor) at the end
of about 12 feet of cable. (Too far to run the switch contacts from the
VFD to the machine.) But I would *not* do this with a VFD close to the
rating of the single load being driven. *That*, I would run the switch
contacts to the VFD's control terminals.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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