Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default How my mill looks today

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid.../28-September/

I added a special bracket to attach two Loc-lines to the quill, so
that the stream follows the cutter if necessary. This assebmly can be
removed. I now have a Loc-Line fixed to the head (for drilling mostly)
and the loc-line attached to the quill (for milling). Both are on
separate valves, so I can pick which one runs. The clamp does not
interfere with homing.

The bracket also has a slot to mount the mister line if necessary. I
of course made this bracket on the mill (and could not easily do it on
my manual mill due to its curvy shape where it "hugs" the quill).

Also can be seen, my chip guard, the mounted monitor, and electrical
cabinet.

Also a Saitek joypad that I use for jogging the mill.

Clearly a work in progress, but it is closer to finish now than it is
to start and it works.

i
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Default How my mill looks today

On Sep 2, 10:38*pm, Ignoramus28169 ignoramus28...@NOSPAM.
28169.invalid wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...teract-2-CNC-M...

I added a special bracket to attach two Loc-lines to the quill, so
that the stream follows the cutter if necessary. This assebmly can be
removed. I now have a Loc-Line fixed to the head (for drilling mostly)
and the loc-line attached to the quill (for milling). Both are on
separate valves, so I can pick which one runs. The clamp does not
interfere with homing.

The bracket also has a slot to mount the mister line if necessary. I
of course made this bracket on the mill (and could not easily do it on
my manual mill due to its curvy shape where it "hugs" the quill).

Also can be seen, my chip guard, the mounted monitor, and electrical
cabinet.

Also a Saitek joypad that I use for jogging the mill.

Clearly a work in progress, but it is closer to finish now than it is
to start and it works.

i


Doesn't your wife ever make you clean you room?


Paul
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Default How my mill looks today

On 2010-09-03, wrote:
On Sep 2, 10:38?pm, Ignoramus28169 ignoramus28...@NOSPAM.
28169.invalid wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...teract-2-CNC-M...

I added a special bracket to attach two Loc-lines to the quill, so
that the stream follows the cutter if necessary. This assebmly can be
removed. I now have a Loc-Line fixed to the head (for drilling mostly)
and the loc-line attached to the quill (for milling). Both are on
separate valves, so I can pick which one runs. The clamp does not
interfere with homing.

The bracket also has a slot to mount the mister line if necessary. I
of course made this bracket on the mill (and could not easily do it on
my manual mill due to its curvy shape where it "hugs" the quill).

Also can be seen, my chip guard, the mounted monitor, and electrical
cabinet.

Also a Saitek joypad that I use for jogging the mill.

Clearly a work in progress, but it is closer to finish now than it is
to start and it works.

i


Doesn't your wife ever make you clean you room?


She does. I am in the process of cleaning.

i
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dan dan is offline
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Posts: 354
Default How my mill looks today

What's that Lassie? You say that Ignoramus28169 fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Fri, 03 Sep 2010 00:38:24 -0500:

Iggy, I meant to get this to you sooner.
http://www.harveytool.com/
Has a great selection of small end mills and other tooling.

--

Dan H.
northshore MA.
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Default How my mill looks today

On 2010-09-04, dan wrote:
What's that Lassie? You say that Ignoramus28169 fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Fri, 03 Sep 2010 00:38:24 -0500:

Iggy, I meant to get this to you sooner.
http://www.harveytool.com/
Has a great selection of small end mills and other tooling.


Looks kind of interesting, but some items are pricey.

i


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Default How my mill looks today

On 2010-09-03, Ignoramus28169 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid.../28-September/


First -- come comments on the photos on the web site.

Assuming that you have done any processing on the images, I
suspect that your monitor brightness and contrast are not set properly.
The images, as I downloaded them, are too dark by far to make it
possible to interpret what is in them. I downloaded some of them and
processed them locally to get a better view of things. (Below you will
find a description of what I have done to them so you can experiment
with the same things and see what kind of difference it makes.

You want to get a grayscale image and adjust the brightness and
contrast until you can (barely) distinguish the darkest block from the
next darkest, and the lightest from the next lightest.

Then you are in a position to start editing the images --
though if you can control the gamma of your driver to the display, you
may want to tune that too to match your monitor. The gamma which is
correct for a CRT is not correct for a LCD monitor.

Anyway -- once that is done, and assuming that you are using
"The GIMP", when you bring up each image, first click "tools" in the top
of the window, then select "Color Tools" in the sub-menu, and below that
select "curves"

This will bring up a histogram of the intensity of each image.
For your images, what I had to do to make them easier to see is to first
click on the top-right corner end of the diagonal line, and draw it
along the top line until it was over the next vertical line in.

Then I moved the mouse pointer to the middle of the diagonal
line, clicked and drew it up a bit towards the upper-left-hand corner.
(View what is happening to the image as you do this, and release when
you are happy with it.

then, click "Ok" to accept the changes and banish the "Curves"
window.

Then "^S" to save it over the existing image (this assumes that
you have saved original copies else -- otherwise use "^-shift-S" to save
it under another name.

I saved and edited images "28-September-7766.jpg" through
"28-September-7766.jpg" before I got tired of waiting for the downloads.
(You saved the images as 3872x2592 images, which took forever to
download.) And some (especially the screen images) could have
benefited from cropping as well.

It is nice to have the full resolution available to answer
questions, but I would suggest that you make half-sized thumbnails to
view on the web -- and links to allow downloading the full-resolution
image should I (or someone else) want the higher detail.

[ ... ]

Clearly a work in progress, but it is closer to finish now than it is
to start and it works.


Now -- some suggestions for *keeping* it running:

1) Put a hinged clear plastic window in the opening in the pod to keep
conductive chips out of the control switches.

2) *Especially* -- put a door on the electronics enclosure.

Your machine makes nice conductive chips. If these get into the
electronics housing, they can fry things. (This *might* be what happened
to your servo amp (drive).)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Default How my mill looks today

On 2010-09-04, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-09-03, Ignoramus28169 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid.../28-September/


First -- come comments on the photos on the web site.

Assuming that you have done any processing on the images, I
suspect that your monitor brightness and contrast are not set properly.
The images, as I downloaded them, are too dark by far to make it
possible to interpret what is in them. I downloaded some of them and
processed them locally to get a better view of things. (Below you will
find a description of what I have done to them so you can experiment
with the same things and see what kind of difference it makes.

You want to get a grayscale image and adjust the brightness and
contrast until you can (barely) distinguish the darkest block from the
next darkest, and the lightest from the next lightest.

Then you are in a position to start editing the images --
though if you can control the gamma of your driver to the display, you
may want to tune that too to match your monitor. The gamma which is
correct for a CRT is not correct for a LCD monitor.

Anyway -- once that is done, and assuming that you are using
"The GIMP", when you bring up each image, first click "tools" in the top
of the window, then select "Color Tools" in the sub-menu, and below that
select "curves"

This will bring up a histogram of the intensity of each image.
For your images, what I had to do to make them easier to see is to first
click on the top-right corner end of the diagonal line, and draw it
along the top line until it was over the next vertical line in.

Then I moved the mouse pointer to the middle of the diagonal
line, clicked and drew it up a bit towards the upper-left-hand corner.
(View what is happening to the image as you do this, and release when
you are happy with it.

then, click "Ok" to accept the changes and banish the "Curves"
window.

Then "^S" to save it over the existing image (this assumes that
you have saved original copies else -- otherwise use "^-shift-S" to save
it under another name.

I saved and edited images "28-September-7766.jpg" through
"28-September-7766.jpg" before I got tired of waiting for the downloads.
(You saved the images as 3872x2592 images, which took forever to
download.) And some (especially the screen images) could have
benefited from cropping as well.

It is nice to have the full resolution available to answer
questions, but I would suggest that you make half-sized thumbnails to
view on the web -- and links to allow downloading the full-resolution
image should I (or someone else) want the higher detail.

[ ... ]

Clearly a work in progress, but it is closer to finish now than it is
to start and it works.


Now -- some suggestions for *keeping* it running:

1) Put a hinged clear plastic window in the opening in the pod to keep
conductive chips out of the control switches.

2) *Especially* -- put a door on the electronics enclosure.

Your machine makes nice conductive chips. If these get into the
electronics housing, they can fry things. (This *might* be what happened
to your servo amp (drive).)


I will put the door back very soon. Right now it would get too much in
the way. The chips do not really get inside the enclosure all that
much due to the shield. I think that it was worse when they used mist
cooling with the compressed air blowing chips everywhere.

I am a little exhausted today, but maybe tomorrow I will try
re-editing images.
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