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Garage Door Opener-Capacitor gone bad?



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 5th 05, 04:34 PM
toller
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Default Garage Door Opener-Capacitor gone bad?

About a month ago my Liftmaster 1265 stopped running. It would just hum for
about 2 seconds and stop. Liftmaster said the limit switch has been
overrun, so I played with that. When I move the limit back, the opener
hummed for 2 seconds, paused, and then hummed for 2 seconds with a slightly
different pitch.

Someone here said the problem was probably a leaking capacitor. I took the
cover off, but the capacitor looked fine. But when I touched the capacitor
the opener suddenly started running. It was okay for 2 days, then stopped
again. I touched the capacitor again and it ran okay for 5 minutes, then
stopped. Now touching does not help.

I figured there was loose wire, but I sure can't find one. Liftmaster says
it is probably a bad capacitor for $20; and if not that, a bad logic board
for $85.

Does a bad capacitor make sense? Could touching a bad capacitor make it run
for a while? Obviously they won't be taking the capacitor back if it
doesn't help.

This is so so frustrating.


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  #3  
Old February 5th 05, 05:21 PM
toller
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Default


"Samuel Warren" wrote in message
...
Sounds like to me that PCB connection has broke lose from it's solder
connection. Have a skilled electronics friend resolder the connection to
the PCB board for you.

Can you elaborate on what a PCB connection is, and how I identify it? All
the wires are firmly attached, but if it is something smaller i wouldn't
have seen it. Thanks.


  #4  
Old February 5th 05, 05:25 PM
Abe
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Default

Someone here said the problem was probably a leaking capacitor. I took the
cover off, but the capacitor looked fine. But when I touched the capacitor
the opener suddenly started running. It was okay for 2 days, then stopped
again. I touched the capacitor again and it ran okay for 5 minutes, then
stopped. Now touching does not help.

I figured there was loose wire, but I sure can't find one. Liftmaster says
it is probably a bad capacitor for $20; and if not that, a bad logic board
for $85.

Does a bad capacitor make sense? Could touching a bad capacitor make it run
for a while? Obviously they won't be taking the capacitor back if it
doesn't help.

---------------
I'm can't help you troubleshoot the problem, but if you want to try a
new capacitor, take the old one along with the wiring schematic to an
electronics store. You can get a new one for under a dollar.
  #6  
Old February 5th 05, 05:37 PM
Tony Hwang
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Posts: n/a
Default

toller wrote:
About a month ago my Liftmaster 1265 stopped running. It would just hum for
about 2 seconds and stop. Liftmaster said the limit switch has been
overrun, so I played with that. When I move the limit back, the opener
hummed for 2 seconds, paused, and then hummed for 2 seconds with a slightly
different pitch.

Someone here said the problem was probably a leaking capacitor. I took the
cover off, but the capacitor looked fine. But when I touched the capacitor
the opener suddenly started running. It was okay for 2 days, then stopped
again. I touched the capacitor again and it ran okay for 5 minutes, then
stopped. Now touching does not help.

I figured there was loose wire, but I sure can't find one. Liftmaster says
it is probably a bad capacitor for $20; and if not that, a bad logic board
for $85.

Does a bad capacitor make sense? Could touching a bad capacitor make it run
for a while? Obviously they won't be taking the capacitor back if it
doesn't help.

This is so so frustrating.


Hi,
How is the capacitor mounted? On the body of motor? On a logic board?
Any lead wires from capacitor? Then where is the wires going?
No wires and mounted on a logic board, then vibration cracked solder
joints causing intermittent problem. Resolder them and reinforce it with
a drop of epoxy.
Good luck,
Tony
P.S. You can't tell whether capacitor is good or bad by just looking.
  #8  
Old February 5th 05, 05:41 PM
Tony Hwang
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Posts: n/a
Default

Abe wrote:
Someone here said the problem was probably a leaking capacitor. I took the
cover off, but the capacitor looked fine. But when I touched the capacitor
the opener suddenly started running. It was okay for 2 days, then stopped
again. I touched the capacitor again and it ran okay for 5 minutes, then
stopped. Now touching does not help.

I figured there was loose wire, but I sure can't find one. Liftmaster says
it is probably a bad capacitor for $20; and if not that, a bad logic board
for $85.

Does a bad capacitor make sense? Could touching a bad capacitor make it run
for a while? Obviously they won't be taking the capacitor back if it
doesn't help.


---------------
I'm can't help you troubleshoot the problem, but if you want to try a
new capacitor, take the old one along with the wiring schematic to an
electronics store. You can get a new one for under a dollar.

Hi,
If it's starting cap for the motor. It will cost more than a dollar for
sure.
Tony
  #9  
Old February 5th 05, 09:00 PM
[email protected]
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Posts: n/a
Default


toller wrote:

About a month ago my Liftmaster 1265 stopped running. It
would just hum for about 2 seconds and stop. Liftmaster
said the limit switch has been overrun, so I played with
that. When I move the limit back, the opener hummed for
2 seconds, paused, and then hummed for 2 seconds with
a slightly different pitch.

Someone here said the problem was probably a leaking
capacitor. I took the cover off, but the capacitor
looked fine. But when I touched the capacitor the
opener suddenly started running. It was okay for 2
days, then stopped again. I touched the capacitor again
and it ran okay for 5 minutes, then stopped. Now
touching does not help.


Did you remove the cover without disconnecting the AC power first?
That can be risky, not only because of the potential for electric shock
but also for the opener to start accidentally and grab your finger or
hair.

I'd first disconnect the AC and see if the connections to the motor
capacitor are loose. Reseat any push-on spade connectors, and tighten
any screw eyelet connectors. If that doesn't help, then you may have a
bad motor capacitor or a bad connection elsewhere. Vibration from the
motor can make solder joints crack on the printed circuit board (PCB),
but the cracks can be microscopic, so some technicians simply resolder
almost everything (start with connectors and larger, heavier component
connections).

Since the motor capacitor is an oil-filled one, it can be tested fairly
well with just an ordinary volt-ohm meter -- see www.repairfaq.org for
instructions and also for safety advice. These capacitors are
available from almost any electrical supply but not from electronic
supplies, which rarely carry oil-filled capacitors. Liftmaster is made
by Chamberlain, which also makes Sears Craftsman openers, and Sears is
sometimes cheaper for parts.

  #10  
Old February 5th 05, 09:02 PM
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


toller wrote:

About a month ago my Liftmaster 1265 stopped running. It
would just hum for about 2 seconds and stop. Liftmaster
said the limit switch has been overrun, so I played with
that. When I move the limit back, the opener hummed for
2 seconds, paused, and then hummed for 2 seconds with
a slightly different pitch.

Someone here said the problem was probably a leaking
capacitor. I took the cover off, but the capacitor
looked fine. But when I touched the capacitor the
opener suddenly started running. It was okay for 2
days, then stopped again. I touched the capacitor again
and it ran okay for 5 minutes, then stopped. Now
touching does not help.


Did you remove the cover without disconnecting the AC power first?
That can be risky, not only because of the potential for electric shock
but also for the opener to start accidentally and grab your finger or
hair.

I'd first disconnect the AC and see if the connections to the motor
capacitor are loose. Reseat any push-on spade connectors, and tighten
any screw eyelet connectors. If that doesn't help, then you may have a
bad motor capacitor or a bad connection elsewhere. Vibration from the
motor can make solder joints crack on the printed circuit board (PCB),
but the cracks can be microscopic, so some technicians simply resolder
almost everything (start with connectors and larger, heavier component
connections).

Since the motor capacitor is an oil-filled one, it can be tested fairly
well with just an ordinary volt-ohm meter -- see www.repairfaq.org for
instructions and also for safety advice. These capacitors are
available from almost any electrical supply but not from electronic
supplies, which rarely carry oil-filled capacitors. Liftmaster is made
by Chamberlain, which also makes Sears Craftsman openers, and Sears is
sometimes cheaper for parts.

 




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