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What size fascia board?



 
 
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  #1  
Old September 28th 05, 01:39 PM
[email protected]
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Default What size fascia board?

I am building a detached garage and want the appearance of 6" fascia
board. Will be using vented vinyl soffit that is about 1/2" (maybe
more) in height. To take advantage of the 6" aluminum fascia cover,
should I use 2x4 fascia so that the J of the aluminum fascia cover can
accomodate the vinyle soffit? If I used 2x6 it seems the aluminum
might not completely cover it and allow for the vinyl soffit. I am
worried about the aluminum not having enough surface area support,
although I guess that would only be an inch or so of unsupport.

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  #2  
Old September 28th 05, 06:50 PM
HerHusband
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I am building a detached garage and want the appearance of 6" fascia
board. Will be using vented vinyl soffit that is about 1/2" (maybe
more) in height. To take advantage of the 6" aluminum fascia cover,
should I use 2x4 fascia so that the J of the aluminum fascia cover can
accomodate the vinyle soffit? If I used 2x6 it seems the aluminum
might not completely cover it and allow for the vinyl soffit. I am
worried about the aluminum not having enough surface area support,
although I guess that would only be an inch or so of unsupport.


I used 2x6 rafters when I built our garage. This meant the rake board on
the gable end was also a 2x6. When the rake board was plumb cut on the
end where it met the fascia board, the diagonal cut is obviously taller
than the 2x6.

So, I used a 2x8 fascia, and ripped the top edge at a bevel to match the
roof slope. The height of the fascia matches the height of the plumb cut
on the end of the rake board. This way the rake and fascia meet nicely at
the corner of the roof.

If this doesn't matter to you, I would rip the 2x6 down to whatever size
you need to support the 6" aluminum fascia cover.

Anthony
  #4  
Old September 28th 05, 07:22 PM
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On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 12:50:03 -0500, HerHusband wrote:
When the rake board was plumb cut on the
end where it met the fascia board,


Out of curiosity, is there anything wrong with leaving the ends (rake
board and rafter ends) un-cut and un-plumb and just nailing the fascia
board on that way? Granted it would look a little unusual but for a
garage or shed or fishing camp etc, who cares?.... but is there some
structural reason why it needs to be plumb?

phantman

  #5  
Old September 28th 05, 07:36 PM
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On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 13:21:31 -0500, Duane Bozarth wrote:
...there's a precedent somewhere for virtually
anything.


LoL! Ok... just wanted to make sure the precedent didn't include
rotten rafter tails or something like that ;-)
Thanks....
Phantman

  #7  
Old September 29th 05, 01:52 AM
JerryD\(upstateNY\)
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If you use a 2X6 fascia for the rakes and the overhang, it will work out OK.
A 2X6 is 5 1/2" wide so if the soffit is 1/2" thick, that adds up to 6".
When you put the roof on, you should use a drip edge on the bottom of the
roof and a rake edge up the sides.
Both these cover 1" below the roof.
This should overlap the fascia by an inch, giving you a nice looking job.

--
JerryD(upstateNY)

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am building a detached garage and want the appearance of 6" fascia
board. Will be using vented vinyl soffit that is about 1/2" (maybe
more) in height. To take advantage of the 6" aluminum fascia cover,
should I use 2x4 fascia so that the J of the aluminum fascia cover can
accomodate the vinyle soffit? If I used 2x6 it seems the aluminum
might not completely cover it and allow for the vinyl soffit. I am
worried about the aluminum not having enough surface area support,
although I guess that would only be an inch or so of unsupport.


  #8  
Old September 29th 05, 04:12 PM
HerHusband
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Out of curiosity, is there anything wrong with leaving the ends (rake
board and rafter ends) un-cut and un-plumb and just nailing the fascia
board on that way? Granted it would look a little unusual but for a
garage or shed or fishing camp etc, who cares?.... but is there some
structural reason why it needs to be plumb?


There's no structural reason I know of. Lots of buildings have been built
this way.

As Duane said, a plumb fascia makes it easier to attach gutters. Though
there are gutter brackets that fasten to the roof to "hang" the gutter
from above. Or, you may just eliminate the gutters altogether if you put
rock around the building or otherwise reduce splashback onto the
building.

Just from a practical standpoint, you aleady have to plumb cut the rafter
at the peak, so it's not much more work to plumb cut the tail. If you
have a power miter saw, it's the same angle. Cut, slide it down, and cut
again. Easy. Cutting the bird-mouths where the rafter sits on the wall
are more time consuming.

Anthony
 




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