What to use for facia replacement?
 

One thing about the hardi product is that they can't be edge nailed, you
need a subfascia, and you also need to keep all uncoated aluminum away
from the hardiplank.

The hardiplank fascia trim boards looked at first like an idea product,
but I have been taking to several contractors and they have had problems
with using them as fascia boards even with subfascia. I was thinking of
Azek or Royal Moldings, but my house is a medium gray color and I don't
want to leave the fascia white - I would want to paint it. I am going
to use the Hardisofit product, and I will have to install a full
subfascia against either along the rafter tails (but this would add to
the width of the soffit), or block them up between the rafter tails
(would keep the original soffit width, but not sure about the strength),
or cut the rafter tails and add the subfascia.

Now the next question is - what do I used for subfascia - they
recommened 2x lumber, but do I use regular wood, pressure-treated, or
that synthetic wood like they use for decks (Miratek)?



Grandpa Koca wrote:
Dave Solly wrote:

I need to replace the facia all around the house. It is presently a
pressed "paper" product that is falling apart.

My first thought was wood, but would a cememt board product such as
Hardie (SP), or a plastic type product be better? How about hanging
gutters on a cement or plastic product? Any problems there?

Thanks.

Dave

There's also anodized aluminum that can be installed (large choice of
colors). Never needs painting (a plus in my book).

USENET READER wrote in news:9_L2e.9310
:

One thing about the hardi product is that they can't be edge nailed, you
need a subfascia, and you also need to keep all uncoated aluminum away
from the hardiplank.


Interesting about the uncoated aluminum. Isn't that what the drip edegs are
made of??

Dave

Some are, and some are not - but James Hardy doesn't want you to use
uncoated aluminum that contacts any of their products. You could prime
and paint the aluminum or use something that wouldn't have a galvanic
reaction with the concrete in the hardiproduct


Dave Solly wrote:

USENET READER wrote in news:9_L2e.9310
:


One thing about the hardi product is that they can't be edge nailed, you
need a subfascia, and you also need to keep all uncoated aluminum away
from the hardiplank.



Interesting about the uncoated aluminum. Isn't that what the drip edegs are
made of??

Dave

...... and I will have to install a full
subfascia against either along the rafter tails (but this would add to
the width of the soffit), or block them up between the rafter tails
(would keep the original soffit width, but not sure about the strength),
or cut the rafter tails and add the subfascia.

Now the next question is - what do I used for subfascia - they
recommened 2x lumber, but do I use regular wood, pressure-treated, or
that synthetic wood like they use for decks (Miratek)?

We use regular pine 2x along the tails and usually cap it with cedar facia.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:35:01 GMT, the inscrutable Dave Solly wrote:

I need to replace the facia all around the house. It is presently a
pressed "paper" product that is falling apart.

My first thought was wood, but would a cememt board product such as
Hardie (SP), or a plastic type product be better? How about hanging
gutters on a cement or plastic product? Any problems there?

I used spruce when I had to replace the fascia on my new (to me)
home 3 years ago. It was lightweight and came pre-primed from the
factory. Tubaate (1-5/8 x 6-1/2") was something like a buck a foot.


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